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TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 02 Feb 2017 14:55
by Traindriver69
Hi all
For some reason the oil light on my Tr7 has stopped working I have tried the bulb and lamp holder but it is not that anyone got any ideas.
many thanks in advance
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 02 Feb 2017 17:40
by FI Spyder
Sender or wiring. There are two types of sender, single wire and three wire.Three wire a little more involved.
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 02 Feb 2017 17:41
by darrellw
Sometimes the sender can get gummed up. I'm not familiar with the sender on the TR7, but it happened on my TR8.
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 02 Feb 2017 20:29
by saabfast
For the single wire type pull the connector off, switch the ignition on (not started) and use a meter to check for voltage. If it has power the sender is at fault, if not it is the wiring. If there is no power IIRC the bulb is connected via the printed circuit, check the connector on the back of the instrument panel, could be the connector or a fault in the printed circuit.
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 03 Feb 2017 16:41
by dursleyman
I would start by disconnecting the wire at the sender and earthing it. If the warning light comes on its the sender that is faulty - if not then you need to investigate the wiring/bulb.
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 03 Feb 2017 17:11
by Traindriver69
I did have a quick try at earthing it but no light could be the connector rusted out will have to try and change it also discovered that the mainbeam light has stopped working.
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 09 Feb 2017 15:38
by Traindriver69
hi all
I tried grounding the wire off the oil sensor but no joy I have now taken the instrument cluster completly out is there any way off testing any points on the panel to rule out it being this.
cheers
Re: TR7 oil light not working
Posted: 09 Feb 2017 21:06
by saabfast
Check the bulb fitting against the printed circuit. Things like oil pressure are normally OK as they are not on for long, ones which stay on tend to get hot and melt the plastic so the bayonet contact does not touch the printed circuit. When I changed to LEDs for the instrument lighting I found that some needed 'packing out' under the printed circuit (with a small piece of foam draught excluder) to make sure they made contact
Is there power at the spade connector for the switch with the ignition on? If not it could be the wire from the instrument multi connector to the sender (continuity check). Otherwise similarly check the printed circuit from the plug to the lampholder. If the fault is in the printed circuit it is possible to bridge the break with a piece of wire soldered in.