tr7triumph.com

Must get round to fitting my roll bar I bought recently. Aim to use 8mm steel Rivnuts. Anyone have pictures of the side mounts installed to ensure I fit it right, please.
Thanks.
Andy.

8mm rivnuts are nowhere NEAR strong enough. Use the correct bolts!

Hi Andy,

Used 10 mm rivnuts on mime, the centre bolt is as you poss know is already in the body ( pull back the carpet and you will see it ) and use this as the starting point locating the roll bar.

Sorry a cr4p picture but only one I could find of mine [:I]




Cheers John





LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

...... And it is possible to fit without removing the tank
..........use the force......
When drilling, but there is a bit of room between the underside parcel shelf and tank to get your fingers in.


www.classiccarrunblackpool.co.uk

1981 DHC 2.0 Litre
1980 DHC pedal car
1982 DHC TR-ailer in the making

John;
Just what I was looking for.
Many thanks.
Andy.

Hi Andy,

No problem mate, as Gaz say's you get your up to reach the bolts under the parcel shelf / hood storage area. Or use rivnuts again.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">If you use rivnuts don't expect the rollbar to be anything other than cosmetic.

I which case it will no longer be a rollbar but rather a poserbar!

You really need a plate on the other side to spread the loading over a greater area than just the bit of sheetmetal pinched between the fold and the flange of the rivnut.
Ideally this backing plate would be the same size and shape as the flange your bolting to it.
If it's thick enough it can be tapped so the bolts can just thread straight into it or you could weld nuts to it so as to make then captive.

Don't get me wrong Rivnuts are a bloody great invention, if they are used within their limitations. But a rollbar isn't a good application of them.

Yeah! I know I'm a boring old curmudgeon who insists on engineering everything to the point of over engineering, but I do it because I can! [:D]</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Hi Cobber,


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="4"><font color="red">You really need a plate on the other side to spread the loading over a greater area than just the bit of sheetmetal pinched between the fold and the flange of the rivnut.
Ideally this backing plate would be the same size and shape as the flange your bolting to it.
If it's thick enough it can be tapped so the bolts can just thread straight into it or you could weld nuts to it so as to make then captive.
</font id="red"></font id="size4"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


Couldnt agree more mate BUT cutting great big junks out of our ' B ' posts to drop in such a plate is behond a lot of us, rear would also be difficult as one bolt comes out in the wheel arch the other is the other side. When installed the base on the roll bar rest on the floor, did consider making up a ' holder ' for this and weld to the floor and bolt through. Welding the hole thing in would be ok as long as you dont want to ever remove the cover behind the seat on the bulk head. I believe, may be in my mind, but the shell feels stiffer with it in. Hope to keep her sunny side up though so not to test it fully !!

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

I HAD a mate. He raced an MG A against me, when I raced my Morgan +4.

We then both bought old Lotus 20 formula juniors. We used to share parts, so at least one of us could make it to a race meeting. I would have his steering rack one week, he would have my transaxle the next.

We only got to race each other a few times, as both cars were rarely going at the same time. We did have a great dice at Bathurst, Easter 1965.

That is why I was not at the meeting where he was killed.

On the slowest corner of Oran Park he ran over a car that had crashed just in front of him. We was probably only doing about 30 MPH, when running over this car turned him round & upside down.

The rollover bar, built [welded] into the frame of the car tore half off, & locked his head in place. He only slid about 10 yard, but that was enough to wear through his helmet, & about 4 inches of his head.

The next year I won his memorial trophy. I could have carried my car & won that race, I wanted it so much.

The car I won it in had a considerable reinforced roll over bar, but I still wouldn't have bet it would help me in a roll over.

I saw the result of a Lotus 19B that rolled at Bathurst a couple of years later. The driver no longer had a head at all. Neither Mr. Brabham, or Mr. Chapman ever put a roll over bar on any car that was of any use to the driver. About all they were ever good for was as a handy handle for pushing the car around the pits, OH, & complying with regulations.

Please, if you are going to muck around with a rollover bar, think of landing upside down at 60 miles per hour, & build it accordingly, otherwise just don't bother.

Hasbeen

The main function of a roll bar on a TR7 DHC is to stiffen the shell - which it does nicely. Mine is properly BOLTED in place, but I still make every effort to not test it in a roll-over.... To rely on 'riv nuts' is just ridiculous......

Yep, stiffening the frame of a DHC with a solidly mounted roll bar does make sense.

Hasbeen

Just put the roll hoop in my DHC and the way I did those side mounts was to make up a decent plate (say 2-3mm thick) with a pair of 10mm nuts welded to it. You can then drill two holes in that stiffening section where it mounts to so that the welded nuts sit back into them. Now weld the plate on and you have two 10mm captive nuts built into your car which will only pull out in a really big accident. You need a couple of decent plates under the parcel shelf as well, its a fiddle to get to but you can reach them.

Riv nuts are only for trim or shiny bits. PLEASE Nothing important.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

Hi,

Talking of roll over bars did anyone see this the other week, a bargain, mine cost loads more to be custom made by a local coach trimmer.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-tr7-t ... _45wt_1255

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

Looks like an Aero Bar, John

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

This discussion reminds me of a TV Show Trucks! with Stacey David. He had bought a Bronco to redo that had a roll over bar made out of plastic plumbing pipe complete with foam protectors (you know the kind so you don't hit your head on it). He had a lot of fun with that one.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT