TR7 Engine Rebuild Advice

[rugbyref1]

I do enjoy these modification posts ... but mine are all standard and (the kiss of death) they have always been fit for purpose as long as properly maintained

[johnnyj]

Well, I managed to get the bearing out today. Methods tried: A home-made wind-out puller; a home-made slide hammer using a rawl bolt; the "packing it with grease and banging it out with a dowel" technique. Non worked, so in the end I resorted to the "banging it out and destroying it with a screwdriver" method. That worked a treat.

Now all I have to do is remove about a ton of grease and figure out how to put the new one in.

John

[sonscar]

Hopefully the new bush is correctly sized and does not require reaming in situ using an unobtainable jig (only joking?), Steve..

[johnnyj]

Hopefully the new bush is correctly sized and does not require reaming in situ using an unobtainable jig (only joking?), Steve..

Yeah, that would be very unfair! In the end I tapped it in with a socket and a hammer...

On another note, a couple of things from this weekend's engine rebuilding.

1. When sorting through my boxes of spares, looking for bits I took off the engine years ago, I came across some mystery items. Any idea what they are? I have numbered them for ease of reply, and be aware that 5 & 6 may not be from a TR7 at all. I seem to remember throwing a Cadillac cross member or gearbox support in with the TR7 spares many years ago.
2. The timing chain appears to be tight on the left side (green) and loose on the right side (red). Is this normal?

Many thanks all

John

[johnnyj]

For some reason I can't upload the pic of the timing chain, which I had colour coded. Anyway, you get the idea - it is tight from the jackshaft sprocket to the camshaft sprocket, and loose from the crank sprocket to the camshaft sprocket.

Oh, the pic appeared again.

Thanks

John

[Beans]

1+2 are from the back axle, though they seem to have been adapted to receive non original stops (larger holes were the (red) bump stops are fitted)



3+4 Brackets for the alternator, steel piece visible. Alloy bracket is fitted directly to the engine and hidden from view in this picture



5+6 gearbox mount



And the timing chain; the section between cam shaft and crank shaft should be in a straight line. The guide above the jackshaft is to set the "static" chain tension. Refer to the "book" for the correct timing procedure.

[johnnyj]

Thanks Beans, much appreciated.

I have already fitted the rear axle, without parts 1 & 2! Doh! That will take some unpicking.

Re the chain, I just can't work out how to get the tension in the right place. The Haynes "Book of Jokes" is unfathomable in the usual Haynes way. I've locked the crank at TDC and set the jackshaft as it should be, but I can't get the tension where it needs to be.

Thanks again

John

[trsforever]

Hi, I think if you unlock the crank and rotate crank in direction of rotation a few turns it will come right, then recheck timing marks.
you will have to use extreme care fitting the front cover to avoid gasket damage now that the sump and head are on, I always do the front cover first.

[johnnyj]

Hi, I think if you unlock the crank and rotate crank in direction of rotation a few turns it will come right, then recheck timing marks.
you will have to use extreme care fitting the front cover to avoid gasket damage now that the sump and head are on, I always do the front cover first.

Many thanks TRs - I did that and it worked a treat.

Good advice about fitting the timing cover, I will be careful. The head isn't torqued as yet but you live and learn!

Cheers

John

[johnnyj]

1+2 are from the back axle, though they seem to have been adapted to receive non original stops (larger holes were the (red) bump stops are fitted)



3+4 Brackets for the alternator, steel piece visible. Alloy bracket is fitted directly to the engine and hidden from view in this picture



5+6 gearbox mount



And the timing chain; the section between cam shaft and crank shaft should be in a straight line. The guide above the jackshaft is to set the "static" chain tension. Refer to the "book" for the correct timing procedure.

Hi Beans

I had a look at items 1 & 2 today, giving them a good clean. I noticed that they have been plated due to them rotting through in the past, so went to the Rimmers website to see if replacements are available. However, I am puzzled. My car has the 4 speed rear axle and those bump stop brackets aren't shown at all in the relevant section of the site, although they are shown on the 5 speed axle.

I'm assuming that they came off my car originally, but I have acquired quite a lot of spares over the years so it is possible they were not actually from my car and just included in a big box of parts I bought years ago.

Do you know if they were definately fitted to the 4 speed axle? I've had a look at some photos of my axle/diff when it came off the car but I can't see the brackets fitted.

Cheers

John

[Beans]

As far as I know they were only fitted to the cars fitted with the 5-speed axle

[johnnyj]

As far as I know they were only fitted to the cars fitted with the 5-speed axle

Ah, that explains it. Panic over.

Many thanks

John