Anonymous

what to do with a hose

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 01 Mar 2008 16:35

Years ago, a friend of mine had a kikk-but dume buggy with a Chevy 327 engine in it. It was just a cut down Chevy truck frame, the engine, two seats, a beer keg for a gas tank and 18" Indy tires on the back.

Anyway, I regress! He took a used freon can, drilled a hole where the connection was and put in a radiator drain cock. He then cut a big hole in the bottom of the can and braised in a a piece of pipe that would hold an air breather cap. Now, he put in a piece of coiled tubing that would extend down about halfway into the can and the top end would stick out the side of the can near the breather cap. He used a coil mounting bracket to secure the unit to the truck frame with the breather cap at the top and the drain at the bottom. He ran a piece of tubing from the valve covers to the side mounted tube of the can.

It would act like a distiller, letting the oil fumes condense in the coiled tubing and drain to the bottom of the can and the air would exit out of the breather cap on the top. He would then drain the can about every week.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 01 Mar 2008 16:38

OK, Beans,

That air ducking that comes from the front of the engine compartment, goes under the carbs and seems to go to the fire wall. Is that you air intake for your heater?

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

Beans
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Postby Beans » 04 Mar 2008 21:14

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Odd</i>

...Beans, your car is an environmental hazard...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I am working to get my carbon footprint down a bit ... so I'm limiting my online time a bit [:D]

b.t.w. what does PC mean ???
Only thing I can think of is a personal computer or a literary price [:p]

Will come back back on the strut brace later, when I have repaired my heater for next week rally.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 04 Mar 2008 21:33

Politically Correct?

Personal Computer?

Pretty Chummy?

Popular Car?

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 04 Mar 2008 21:48


Beans
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Postby Beans » 05 Mar 2008 20:28

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

...I observe in the photo from our friend in the Netherlands there is a vacuum port in the top of the intake manifold for the master brake cylinder booster. It would be a small matter to install a 'T' fitting and attach the PCV hose... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Do you really say "shove it all in one cilinder" [?] that would be great for balancing your carbs [B)]

Also have a look at older engines like the (slightly more agricultural then a TR7) TR2/3/4 engine. They only had a steel mesh filled mushroom on top of the rocker cover as sump breather. An engine in good health shouldn't have any overpressure whilst running.
Both TR7 and Sprint cam covers have this steel mesh behind the breather pipe, so filtering sorted.

Just make sure you thrash the car on a regular basis (when its on temperature of course and with half decent oil) and you won't have any problems with oily muck etc. No better way to keep the engine clean inside, as the internals of both my running engines clearly show ...

Image

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Beans
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Postby Beans » 05 Mar 2008 20:59

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

... That air ducking ... Is that you air intake for your heater?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That indeed is. It connects to an alloy cover thats glued (SikaFlex) to the bulkhead

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Beans
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Postby Beans » 05 Mar 2008 21:19

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Shauniedawn</i>

...Not sure if it would really be noticeable on the road?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
't Kreng has some (paint)damage to the edge off the bonnet where it was "hit" by the frontwing during one off our Nightrally's...

Image

This means the inside off the frontwing can easily move some 5mm inwards. That's why I decided to put a strutbrace in ...

By fitting it the front end really became noticable stiffer, improving turn-in and front-end grip. But the biggest improvement is at speed in a straight line on a bumpy road. Here it is much more stable.

Compared to 't Kreng the improvement on the DHC is not so evident, although still noticable. I think that's due to the fact that it's not as well balanced and fast as 't Kreng. And of course a DHC's body isn't as stiff as a FHC.


<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 05 Mar 2008 23:50

I'm with you Beans, on the breather thing.

I had a half pint tall skinny tin as an oil catcher on the breather
of my F2 Brabham went into. The pipe went to the bottom, & the can
was filled with loosely packed course steel wool. I never saw
visible fumes comming out of it.

After 18 months of racing, with the thing opperating only above
6700 RPM, I pulled it off, & checked it, when preparing the car for
sale.

It had less than half an inch of oil in it.

Re-breathing crankcase fumes is probably a good idea for car owners,
who don't look after their engines. For those who do, its
unnecessary.


Strutbraces make a real difference, if you drive hard. Few people
realise the stress in ths suspension of their car, but I had a real
demonstration, back in the early 60s, when radial tyres
with "sticky" rubber appeared, followed by Dunlop green spot racing
tyres.

In production sports car racing we had a spate of broken stub axles
fortunately, often when not on the track. We were all suffering with
pad "knock off", but with disc brakes fairly new, we had no idea
what the problem was. One bloke marketed a restrictor for the brake
line, to stop it happening. All of us racing Morgans, & the MG boys
had the problem, plus some others.

I had the right hand front wheel bearings pack up, in practice for
an Oran Park meeting. We fitted new bearings, & I raced the car, but
driving home, [most sports drove to the races then] I could hear a
rumble from those same bearings. They had failed in 55 miles.

I could find nothing obvious wrong, so a mate took my stub axle to
work with him, at the BMC, [British Motor Corp], experexperimental
department. A few days later they called me in, & showed me that the
axle was bent 6 degrees DOWNWARD, & had a crack developing at the
root of the axle.
Yes DOWNARD, the cornering force, acting inwards, at the bottom of
the wheel, when cornering, bends it down.

A mate machined up a thicker stub axle, which was grafted onto the
Morgan front suspension, then found himself with lots of them to
do, as the word got around, & every one started finding theirs were
cracked.

Within a month, Morgan introduced a thicker stub axle, as did BMC,
& our brake pad knock off problem disappeared.

What I'm saying, in my usual long winded way is, the forces bending
things, when cornering are very large. The area where the crack
started in my stub, was 1 5/8 inches diameter.

If cornering forces can bend high quality steel that thick, just
what do you think it does to a bit of body metal?

Hasbeen

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 06 Mar 2008 22:21

Makes interesting reading - thanks chaps.

...looks like I'm making one then!

Shaun

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12691409@N08/

Beans
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Postby Beans » 07 Mar 2008 10:43

If you have a spirited driving style i'd indeed recommend one [;)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 22 Mar 2008 00:21

Hose on works car!
Image

rsamis
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Postby rsamis » 23 Mar 2008 00:01

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Beans</i>

[quote]<i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

... That air ducking ... Is that you air intake for your heater?

That indeed is. It connects to an alloy cover thats glued (SikaFlex) to the bulkhead

Beans, do you have a picture of the connection to your air intake? Sounds like a good alternative to the stock plenum.
Also, is there anything inside your fire extinguisher? Charcoal? Condenser? I just wonder how a new container is different from connecting the breather to the original charcoal canister?

Royal
76 FHC, 4-spd, dual Strombergs

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