Postby Workshop Help » 23 Feb 2008 04:14
When you say 'clutch', Todd, are we dealing with the clutch assembly or the clutch hydraulics? There is a big difference is repair time and cost involved in the answer.
Were we in a gambling mood, the odds favor the clutch hydraulics being out. This repair involves usually the clutch master and slave cylinder overhaul with new repair kits. These kits consist of an inner rubber seal and the outer boot with a dust cap for the bleeder valve. If you're lucky the kit will have some grease in a foil pack. We do recommend that a DOT 4 brake fluid be used rather than a DOT 3 fluid. We also recommend the cylinder bore be honed out with a commonly available hone attachment for your electric drill.
Lastly, have your helper pump the pedal while you are underneath the securely raised car to bleed the slave cylinder with a clear vinyl hose and a soda water bottle.
For a longer lasting and effective upgrade, consider having your slave cylinder fitted with a brass sleeve by a restoration firm such as Apple Hydraulics or White Post Restorations. The Master Cylinder can be replaced with a slightly modified Izuzu pickup truck item that can be viewed on jclay's website. This can be done by most any competent amateur car guy.
As for the worst case scenerio of the clutch assembly malfunctioning, the gearbox must come out. This is all normal mechanical work requiring no out-of-the-ordinary special tools. It takes us about an hour to leisurely pull our gearbox. Then the clutch assembly is easily accessed. It is also suggested the threads on gearbox overhaul on this website be reviewed as your transmission may well need some attention as well.
If the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel, it can be freed without pulling the gearbox. However, please check the hydraulics first prior to any other repair procedures. The old car hobby has many rewards and one should expect the unexpected to occur and face these challenges in a patient and methodical fashion.
Mildred Hargis
