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Just bought lumination electric ignition

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 09 Feb 2008 16:43


Orophin
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Postby Orophin » 10 Feb 2008 12:04

11mm got mine off, and I cut mine down to 3" long and rounded the ends off with a grinder. It's off!! And the lumination kit is ready, well it's in there, it just needs to be bolted in and wired in. I also need to wire up the box and fix it to the side with self tapping screws. And of cause I need to set the timing, my old man reccomends before I bolt it down, set it up so as to when the first cylinder is at it's highest point. Hopefully it'll be fixed today! [8D]

UPDATE: I've just fixed the box to the side and earthed it. I have also attached the neutral wire to the neutral of the ignition coil. I need a 12v supply for the live wire thats only live on run and crank. Apparently this will work on the coil, if I don't have a ballast system in the car wiring system. What is that?? A ballast resistor? So can I simply wire it to the live side of the ignition coil??

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 10 Feb 2008 18:14

If your ignition is standard (apart from fitting the Lumenition) then you WILL have a ballast resistor wire in the circuit. The ballast resistor is inserted in series in the primary circuit between the ignition switch and the positive terminal of the ignition coil.

When the engine is running, its resistance provides a voltage drop in the primary circuit, which lowers the voltage applied to the coil. The coil is designed to operate at this lower voltage level and still provide the step-up transformer action needed, for secondary circuit operation.

However, during cranking, a parallel connection from the starting circuit by-passes the ballast resistor. The voltage available at the battery terminals at this time, will now be applied to the positive terminal of the ignition coil. This voltage will give a boost to the current flowing in the primary circuit. You will have a 6V coil so it will not provide 12V supply!

So, I don't think you can use the live side of the coil. I think mine is wired to an ignition live from the fuse box - that's a bit more work but you only have to do it once.

Tony
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Orophin
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Postby Orophin » 10 Feb 2008 19:17

Great [}:)] the fuse box in the glove compartment?

Odd
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Postby Odd » 10 Feb 2008 19:29

Is there any other fuse box in the car?[8D]

Orophin
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Postby Orophin » 10 Feb 2008 20:59

I dunno, i've only found the one myself...[:I]

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 10 Feb 2008 21:41

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Orophin</i>

Great [}:)] the fuse box in the glove compartment?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That'll be the one ........[:)]

Tony
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Orophin
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Postby Orophin » 15 Feb 2008 18:15

Ok, so if I get the cable over there, what color codes are the 12v crank n run wires? And couldn't I just tap into the coil live feed before the ballast resistor?

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 16 Feb 2008 02:51

The fuse box connections are surprisingly easy to get at. Just disconnect the battery, remove the two screws securing the fuse box and gently pull it out so you can access the connections.

Rich

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Orophin
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Postby Orophin » 16 Feb 2008 12:38

oh okay, thanks! There is no bolts to take of to get to teh fuse box in my car. Hang on, would'nt it be on the other side? Because your cars are LHD and it half would be opposite, so I'm thinking wiring straight to the ignition under the steering wheel, we've found a wire that is 12v on ignition and off otherwise. Cutting that, a juction box and a switch will make a handy immobiliser...

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Postby Orophin » 17 Feb 2008 14:26

Update: Hey we did it! We put it to the fuse box in the end. We have bolted it down, only to find it needs adjusting very slightly. Thanksj for all your help!

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