tr7triumph.com

what changes do you have to make to run on this poison
that going to effect classic car owners in Brittian E10 fuel

I've been running my FI TR7 on E10 fuel since day one (2007). I have my FI fuel tank sealed with POR-15 (because the old sealer was flaking off clogging the high pressure fuel pump). I have replaced all fuel lines with modern 50lb. fuel lines (pressure runs at 34 lbs.) except for a short section at the tank on the return line which was standard fuel line (I assume also alcohol resistant) as it was a different size (hard to get as it wasn't standard size, some motorcycles us it but not stocked by locals, eventually got it from NAPA) and runs at standard pressure. I use injection lube and over the winter when car isn't driven I add some fuel stabilizer.

I know some parts of the US and Europe have been running E10 for a while but not sure what their experience has been, some say no problem. It is said to attack older rubber components so presumably connection pipes in the fuel system, maybe the pump and carb diaphragms (if you have them). You could change the fuel line connections but not much you can do about some other components.
Easiest way out is not to use E10 to be sure. I have switched to 97/98 octane premium fuel which is staying as E5 (for now at least) in the UK. More expensive but for the limited annual mileage I do in that car it is not an enormous amount.
E10 is said to be less efficient anyway (lower calorific value?) so you get slightly worse mpg which will help to make the higher cost of E5 a bit more palatable.

For sure using premium fuel won't hurt you, whether you gain anything or not re: price/performance I don't know, you possibly could advance the timing a bit with it which might help the equation. Situation between N/A and UK with fuel is a bit different, the way we figure octane rating (for same fuel, our rating is between 3 to 4 points below yours). Locally, there are two brands that don't have ethanol in premium, (Co-op and Shell) and I use that in my daily driver which requires premium (although a few people use regular as the electronics to retard timing as required). We have a third option for high compression (modded) engines with Chevron that has a forth, super high test which would be around your 98-100. Most if not all rubber fuel lines (at least here) would be alcohol resistant these days but if yours aren't I would change them (if they are old might be a good idea anyways). No idea about rubber diaphragms in Zenith carbs but I don't think you have them there.

The writer of this post uses the word "poison" that about sums it up I would not even park near a bowser of this ****, fine for a modern that has been built to run it but not a classic with older technology and materials, case in point in NZ we have E10 a friend brought a Nissan Rally car with a SR20 DE N/A motor the car had been running E10 for about a season ok then stood un-started for 10-12 months on starting the engine the heads of 3x exhaust valves fell off! the stems had corroded between head and valve guide while stationary. Definitely a NO from me.

I have been using E10 in some of my older cars with out issues, There are too many arm chair critics who know nothing but only what they read or hear through gossip. We have been using it in drag cars and racing since the 1960's
If you car has been destroyed from using this fuel it was probably due a rebuild anyway!
For those who are concerned just add WD40, or diesel to your fuel tank refills

There’s a (presumably) well informed article on using E10 fuel on classics in this month’s issue of Practical Classics magazine (UK). They recommend changing all fuel hoses to SAE J30 R9 spec and also the diaphragm in mechanical fuel pumps to a Viton alternative. In addition they also advise to change any cork gaskets, seals and O-rings that are in contact with fuel to an ethanol resistant type to avoid swelling and cracking. Likewise plastic carb floats can apparently be effected and should be changed to ethanol resistant versions which are available. The other thing they mention is that E10 fuel will burn leaner and hotter due to the higher percentage of oxygen atoms, therefore requiring carbs to be set richer in order to compensate.

Rich.