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One of my jobs in the close season is to replace my cracked dash - is there any tips from you guys out there?
I am going to replace the heater matrix while i have the dash out

Quite nervous but the guess it just needs to be done logically

Have a good look at all the fixings locations in the manual before you start, there are a couple hidden away.
Apart from that it is not a bad job, just a bit of a pain.

It's been a while since I last had mine out. While you could do it on your own, an OEM manual is nice to have to help you along the way. As a rule of thumb as I remove the screws I package them and label them from where they came from, never assuming they are all the same size. Once the dash is out and before putting in new dash, make sure the new one isn't scratched, especially around the lock on glove compartment, especially if it is a grey painted one. This is the time to paint it if you want a new looking dash if the paint is wearing off. While the dash is out, now is the time to clean every contact and put the thinnest layer of dielectric grease on them. Don't forget to clean the contacts on the instrument panel. I took mine out and even cleaned the copper lands on the circuit flex. I measured each bulb with an ohmmeter not relying on visual to make sure the bulb was OK before putting it back. I had the (first) winter to do it in so time wasn't pressing. If you do the whole car like this (connections) you will have a reliable car electrically. In the following 13 years I never had an electrical issue other than a loose starter cable to battery clamp (not a dash issue) and a broken wire in instrument 12V supply connections (caused by subsequent centre console removals). The clock has always worked. The only thin I didn't do (didn't know about it) was clean the tach rest position to eliminate the initial hesitation in tach.

I advice to remove the steering wheel and the steering column switches.
This will give you much more room to manoeuvre.
Removing the seats will give even more room.

And take lots of pictures before and during dismantling, this will help with reassembly.

Thanks chaps - all good tips

I hope you don’t find a mouse nest behind the glovebox like I did, best of luck just take your time and mark everything you take off.

While it is out is a good time to change the instrument lighting to LED. The original incandescent bulbs get hot and soften the plastic panel so the holders can lose contact with the printed circuit. Note that to maintain the green lighting green LEDs will be required. White ones give a weird blue colour through the green lenses.

Can you give me more info on the led conversion please

Thanks

Before you reassemble, track down some single side sticky neoprene foam rubber stripping. Put this between all the surfaces that are likely to move against each other, for a silent, squeak free car. You want something 1/2" to 5/8" wide, & 3/16" to 5/16" thick.

Make sure it is neoprene, not ordinary rubber, which will squash flat in months, allowing the squeaks to return. Ask me how I know. After using neoprene about 8 years ago, my dash is still silent.

I'd suggest replacing any firewall grommets that look at all tired, & the steering column bush while it's easy.

Hasbeen

I think the main backlighting bulbs were T10 that push into the holder but can't really remember now. Have to get the car out Sunday so will have a look to see if there are any left in it then and confirm.

The bulbs are in small black top hat style holders that can be accessed from the rear of the instrument cluster. The rotate about 90 degrees then poll out - I swapped my bulbs with green LED's many years ago and removed the green lens. The result was a much easier to read speedo so fully recommended.

I found a large piece of cardboard and sketched the dashboard on it. Then you can push each screw and fastener through the card in the "correct" location as you take them out to aid with the replacement afterwards.
Brian

Found the lamps in the car and my old order on ebay today. They are T10 bulbs which push into the existing black holder. The ones I got are glass type which look very similar to the existing incandescent bulbs with single LED. I also left the green lenses on which might have been a mistake as they probably dim the illumination. That said, I very seldom drive the car at night and have not since fitting the green LED's so not sure how bright the 'superbright' LED's are. Most of the LED bulbs listed now are the multi LED type without the glass and look longer so may need the domes removed to fit.

I did not change the warning light bulbs as they are not generally on for any length of time. If you do the ignition lamp should not be changed as it is part of a circuit and needs the resistance of the incandescent bulb. (Also remember to get LED's of the colour you want to see).

EDIT: If you want to wait a month or two the Chinese stuff is normally OK but for quicker delivery something like this;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-501-LED-S ... rk:28:pf:0

Even more great info

Love the cardboard idea