tr7triumph.com

Posted: **24 Jan 2013 00:48**

Not only useful information for many Mildred, but that dissertation would earn you a PhD at many of our universities today.

Well done, 99/100.

Hasbeen

Posted: **24 Jan 2013 12:20**

We have that same airbox & sensor on later TR7s over here Mildred, early cars did not have it.

I dare say many cars here have a defective sensor but the part is NLA here too, so thanks for doing the detective work & the write up.

Tony

1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

Posted: **24 Jan 2013 16:19**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TR Tony

We have that same airbox & sensor on later TR7s over here Mildred, early cars did not have it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The item for SU carbs and airbox is different, unfortunately. I had to modify my 16V airbox to take the TR7 8V sensor.

Posted: **24 Jan 2013 21:21**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mildred

The part number shown in my 10+ year old Rimmers catalog for the Home Market, S-U carbureted engines is #AEU1307. From the 10+ year old price book, the cost back then was 21.74 of your English pounds including the ever popular VAT.

From the illustration, it appears to be the same as mine.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Correct but, like the TR7 Sprint handbook recently mentioned elsewhere, reality is different. I entered my cold and dark garage to bring you:

and

BL probably thought they could design their own, low profile, sensor.

Posted: **24 Jan 2013 21:38**

On that renumbering parts, I struck that some time back.

It is a long story, but I found myself as relief spare parts manager of Tutt Bryant in Rabaul New Guinea. Their range of products was endless, but included Mazda.

Rabaul has now been destroyed by the volcanoes that surround it, & that volcanic nature meant the soil was full of sulphur, which turned to sulphuric acid when it rained. As you can imagine most vehicles lasted about 3 years.

Mazda renumbered each part differently for different models. They had used the same rear wheel cylinder in many models of cars & utes, & successive parts managers had ordered a few each time a new model came out.

Obviously they had not studied the stock records, as the Rabaul branch had never ever sold a wheel cylinder for a Mazda, the things did not last long enough to need them. I found 32 of the same rear wheel cylinders in stock, under 7 different numbers.

Interestingly, for the little Daihatsu one ton, 1500cc diesel table top truck, used by many villages as a bus to bring workers to town each day, we averaged 5 crank shafts a month, but had similarly never sold a wheel bearing or brake part. Something to do with the locals not understanding the need for oil.

I think they needed you up there Mildred.

Hasbeen

Posted: **26 Jan 2013 20:28**

Here is my experience with two different cars. One is a dual ZS with a working FASD. The other is a dual SU with a manual choke. It is winter here and common temperatures are 30F.

The ZS carbed car has a working temp sensor and had a hot air tube to the intake. I removed it because it perished and disconnected the vacuum line for the cold air door. I see no difference in cold or hot performance with it removed.

The SU carbed car has round K&N filters with no hot air tube. It performs the same as the other car in hot and cold conditions after the choke is switched off.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Posted: **26 Jan 2013 20:51**

Back in the 1970's, I had a car with an SU and a pancake filter - the carb iced up on a journey and the revs stayed high - not something I ever want to happen again.

With the TR7, when I drove the car in cold temperatures with a non-working sensor, the engine would 'gag' under full and aggressive throttle - this never happened with the sensor and heat flap working as designed.

YMMV.

Posted: **27 Jan 2013 19:46**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jeffremj

Back in the 1970's, I had a car with an SU and a pancake filter - the carb iced up on a journey and the revs stayed high - not something I ever want to happen again.

With the TR7, when I drove the car in cold temperatures with a non-working sensor, the engine would 'gag' under full and aggressive throttle - this never happened with the sensor and heat flap working as designed.

YMMV.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That is very interesting and plausible. Most small airplanes have carb heat to prevent carb icing. I live in a very dry climate and perhaps am not sucseptible to this problem as long as I stay close to home. I may have to buy a hot air hose and reconnect the vacuum line.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Posted: **30 Jan 2013 23:22**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by nick

Here is my experience with two different cars. One is a dual ZS with a working FASD. The other is a dual SU with a manual choke. It is winter here and common temperatures are 30F.

The ZS carbed car has a working temp sensor and had a hot air tube to the intake. I removed it because it perished and disconnected the vacuum line for the cold air door. I see no difference in cold or hot performance with it removed.

The SU carbed car has round K&N filters with no hot air tube. It performs the same as the other car in hot and cold conditions after the choke is switched off.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It's time for me to eat some crow. I have discovered that the above statement that I made is incorrect. Shortly after posting this I discovered some hesitation after the engine reached operating temperature. The hesitation was mostly in third gear at below 2000 rpm under a load. Also my idle was down around 500 rpm. I started thinking about Mildred's remarks and dug out my hot air hose and vacuum pipes. After reinstalling the hot air system I gave the car a good test and the hesitation is gone and the idle is back to 800. I'll be taking my crow fried with mashed potatoes.

Can someone tell me what the temperature range is on the airbox sensor?

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

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Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor Replacement