Question regarding fuel tank removal

[92rrrandall]

I am going to be replaceing my engine and transmision soon. Thought it would be a good time to have the gas tank restored and replace the fuel lines while the engine is out and the car is on stands.

Do I have to remove the interior trim to get the tank off the car?? Or do you just unbolt straps from underneath?? The shop manual does not mention interior dissassembly to remove the tank.

Randall

[john 215]

Hi Randall,
No need to remove interior to remove tank, except for the plate inside the boot to get to the filler neck connection if you choose to disconnect it here. You will however have to drop the axle [:0] to remove the tank.
The subject has come up a few times on here worth doing a search to check where others have had problems.
Good Luck,
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

[92rrrandall]

Thanks for the info. I tried to find the previous discussions regarding tank removal, but was not having much luck.

Randall

[bmcecosse]

The rear section of the exhaust needs to come off, and both rear dampers need to be disconnected at the top mount. Haynes suggests only one needs undoing - this is rubbish! The axle needs to be dropped down so far (but is still very much in the way) that if I was doing this again I would just take it right off! Another 4 bolts would have done it. I suggest spraying all the bolts etc with Plus-gas or similar proper release fluid to free them off as often as you can before starting the job. I was lucky - I only undid the two forward strap mounts from below the car and the straps then easily bent out the way to allow the tank to drop on my head - this also made it easier when refitting the new tank. Obviously best to try to have it completely empty before starting the job. You need four arms to put it back in - two to hold the tank up in place and two to put the straps back on! I also suggest you paint the new tank v thoroughly before fitting it - and, it's a good time to apply any anti-rust treatments to the rear of the car while the tank is off - much better access.

[busheytrader]

Hi Randall,

You'll be kicking yourself later if you don't take advantage of having the car up on stands. The youngest tanks are over 26 years old now and lots have rotted through in the last few years.

I changed mine last year due to fuel leaking through a pinhole in a front corner. A quick prod around with a screwdriver easily made 5 large holes. [:0]

Cheers,

Adam

[Rich in Vancouver]

A tank renew is in the cards for my FHC to be combined with a rear axle replacement.
Ecosse, You say that the shocks have to be removed by removing the top nut. If they are disconnected at the bottom is there sufficient clearance to remove the tank without completely removing them?
Just trying to keep things as simple as possible.
Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[Hasbeen]

Yes, Rich, you can get the tank out, without removing the shocks,
completely. I just undo the bottom nut, to allow the diff to lower
enough. I had to disconnect the brake hose, as well. I also had to
remove the bump stop on that side, & destroyed it doing so.

I found, with my present car, I could get it out, without removing
the exhaust, I just let it hang down. With the first one, on another
car, I had to remove the rear muffler, completely. This was a damn
nuisance as every joint, after the manifold flange had been welded.
This is becoming common in Oz, I suppose its cheeper than clamps.

I would suggest you put lock nuts on the top of the studs that hold
the tank straps. You will find 2 of them in the boot/trunk front
bulkhead. The other 2 are in the bulkhead behind the seats, & you
have to remove the trim panel to get to them.

With these lock nuts its much easier to undo the nut, rather than
have the stud screw out, destroying the strap, which is sitll fixed
to it.

Hasbeen

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

[url="http://www.gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm"]Gas Tank RENU dealers list[/url]

[Rblackadar]

Scott at Team Triumph has these Renu tanks for $175.00 ....Lifetime warranty as well. http://www.teamtriumph.com/

[Rich in Vancouver]

Thanks for the info guys.
Unfortunately it looks like my local gas tank renu dealer has gone T-U as their phone number is out of service. I will most likely just use a rinse the tank out with an acid solution and run a sloshing sealer through it.
Good tip on the nuts.[:D]

Cheers,
Rich


1975 TR7 ACL764U

[bmcecosse]

I found the damper on the side you are going to slide the tank out from HAD to be removed completely - but honestly - it's two minutes to undo the top nuts for the damper - easiest part of the whole job! I had no problem with my 'nuts' - but of course you can try all that out before you start the job in earnest, and get everything moving nicely so you don't get stuck on the day. If going to all that trouble I honestly advise you to fit a new tank rather than patch up the old one. My old tank turned out to be paper thin all along the base.

[konnie]

just in the process of replacing fuel tank, and the swear box is full, every nut bolt solid, shockers red rusted hacksaw grinder trailing arms tie rods brake pipes diff n axel on the floor bump stops the lot, tank straps cut off, now im ready to refit sourced new shockers going to re-bush trailing arms/tierods any ideas on which are easyist to fit, wire brushed up where tank fits and rubbed in tarry underseal two coats,looking forward to fitting tank had to prize old one out will try to post a picture.

[Rich in Vancouver]

I think that I will be in pretty good shape as I rebuilt my rear suspension last summer and had everything apart. The car had brand new Konis on it when I bought it so I don't expect any problems there. I do plan on reconditioning a spare tank prior to pulling the existing one so, with any luck this task shouldn't take more than a weekend including swapping the recently replaced brakes and lines over to the replacement rear end.We have rust problems here but they don't seem to nearly as severe as those of you in Britain have to deal with so I will take Hasbeen's advice about lock-nutting the bstraps and have a go at it.[:D]

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U