tr7triumph.com

My TR8 engine has been sitting in a garage for 25 years. What should I be looking out for as I begin to tear it down? Looking for insight into salvaging components and not damaging this beautiful piece of engineering.

Thankfully I've never had to strip my engine down. I've rebuilt the Holley carb more than once, replaced the valley gasket, swapped the distributor, sump and oil pick up from Range Rover to TR8 / SD1 spec, but not a full stripdown.

Might be worth having a look at this video by RPi engineering on a Rover V8 engine strip down? One of the RV8 specialists in the UK. Whereabouts on the globe are you?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Tz4_qRqZmes&t=24s

There will be the standard wear and tear items like bearings, check journal diameters, bores for wear and scrarches, pistons ,cam lobes, valve seats and guides . Then all the posabilities due to long term storage, corrosion, blocked water ways, gummed up oil passages.

Unless it is a very low mileage vehicle Some things like bearing shells, timing chains, piston rings and even the cam and followers are so cheap I would probably just replace them anyway.

To be safe the engine will need to be stripped down to the last nut and bolt, every part cleaned and the block and heads acid etched to get rid of the burnt on oil. If you don't do this it will come off when you start using the engine. A new camshaft and followers are essential, rebore rather than re ringing. Check the valve guides for wear. I worked on the principle that I didn't want to take the engine apart again so everything must be checked. My engine has now lasted for 25years with regular oil and filter changes. Incidentally, is your '8 engine carb or EFI as on the latter all the fuel lines will need to be changed. Good luck with the project.

Some great advice! Where are you guys buying your engine parts from? Rimmers?

Rimmers are ok but all the landrover specialists (craddocks, paddocks) sell similar standard parts cheaper, if you are after uprated parts real steel are pretty good.

Replace the pressure relief valve with the MGBV8 type

For V8 engine parts, my first stop would be Real Steel.
I am interested to know what difference an MGBV8 oil pressure spring makes as I have not heard of this variant before.

Real Steel list one on their website. http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf Page S1/6.

Most of the V8 specialists seem to have an uprated spring listed. "Boosts oil pressure by 10psi etc". I couldn't tell you what my running oil pressure is as I don't have a gauge. I have enough issues watching the temperature gauge for an issue that's yet to occur. (Blame that on the 2.0L engine's water pump failing prior to conversion)

An uprated spring was supplied in my S&S Preparations V8 conversion kit back in the day.

MGV8 boosts the pressure, thats about it, pumps more, faster, definitely recommended for performance engines, do more good than harm in a standard engine.

I used to get parts off real Steel years ago, have they decided the internet is not just a passing phase? do they have a website yet? … Last time I checked they had just got themselves a fax machine.

Errrr....... As per my previous post

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf

There is a website but you can't order in line.

I don't remember posting the attachment though.

Oops, missed the link,
They do seem to go out of their way to make it difficult to buy anything. Interesting that the improved pressure relief spring is cheaper than the original.
That must be a first .

I guess it just delays the point at which the pressure relief valve opens under operating conditions.......if you've got low oil pressure at low revs when the oil's warm it won't make any difference.

From all the RV8 books that I've read, the V8 has a low pressure / high volume oil system and too high a pressure isn't good as it stresses other parts, a quality 20/50 mineral oil is.

I like an oil pressure gauge to actually show pressure, that spring does the trick.
for the price, and the 10 minutes to fit it ,if I ever got interested in the Rover V8 again I'd put one in. (I won't)
Another uprade while an engine is being rebuilt are hollow push rods, These were standard on the Australian 4.4 litre Leyland P76, gets oil up to the rockers a lot more efficiently than the Rover solid rods. (Rover never to my Knowledge retro fitted these,
I had a set of P76 rods shortened to fit a Rover block. essential if fitting roller rockers. On a standard engine will at least slow down wear on rocker shafts, and get more oil up there.
I think Real Steel sells these to fit Rover blocks.