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water pump rebuild

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clem2010
Wedgling
Posts: 6
Joined: 09 Aug 2015 21:11

water pump rebuild

Postby clem2010 » 11 Dec 2016 18:31

Does anyone know of a company that can rebuild your own water pump
would try it myself but seems to easy to damage things.
The other option is to exchange it for a reconditioned one but read about
some quality issues with the materials used. Any idea's

Stag76
Swagester
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Stag76 » 11 Dec 2016 20:01

Another option worth considering is an Electric Water Pump.
http://daviescraig.com.au/category/ewp-kits-combos

Hasbeen
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Hasbeen » 12 Dec 2016 05:42

Depends what part of the world you live in Clem. Where would that be?

Hasbeen

mariusl
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby mariusl » 12 Dec 2016 05:50

Try Tony 082 6051243 He rebuilds water pumps for cars. Near Carnival City
Mariusl

mariusl
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby mariusl » 12 Dec 2016 05:54

SORRY HE IS A BIT FAR FOR YOU!!
Mariusl

dursleyman
TRiffic
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby dursleyman » 12 Dec 2016 14:45

Tony Hart the Stag specialist does water pump rebuilds and you can find him on Ebay. He is in London UK.
Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC & 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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clem2010
Wedgling
Posts: 6
Joined: 09 Aug 2015 21:11

Re: water pump rebuild

Postby clem2010 » 12 Dec 2016 19:19

Thanks guys for your replys i'm in hertfordshire uk
l'll give tony hart a ring and see what he says.

XSeries
Rust Hunter
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby XSeries » 12 Dec 2016 19:32

Is this for a 4 or 8 cylinder?

I would be interested in the outcome as I contacted 2 companies that claimed to rebuild, one said it would be too difficult, the other stopped replying after an encouraging first couple of emails.

Beans
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Beans » 14 Dec 2016 00:02

If TR7 engine (slant 4) not to difficult to refurbish with basic tools ...
http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/search/label/Water%20pump
Image
1976 TR7 FHC (currently being restored ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng)

http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/

FI Spyder
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby FI Spyder » 14 Dec 2016 00:11

Beans wrote:If TR7 engine (slant 4) not to difficult to refurbish with basic tools ...


Depends who is doing it..... :P A friend had his done by local Jaguar/British car garage to the tune of $600 because of time constraints. Within a year or two it started leaking. He ordered a rebuild kit for $35 and proceeded to do it himself to find that mechanic hadn't bothered to remove the brass cage. After refurbishing it properly it remained fine ever after.

Do it once.
Do it right.
Do it yourself.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

Stag76
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Stag76 » 14 Dec 2016 05:34

That water pump is the source of the TR7 and Stag and Sprint engines reputation for un-reliability.
Even in perfect condition, it is marginal at best. It was fitted because SAAB planned to use the engine
in a FWD setup, turned 180 degrees from the Triumph setup, so it was not practical to mount a water
pump on either end of the engine.

It failed as early as during the first tests conducted by AutoCar or The Motor or some other reputable
magazine of the era. The over-heating could not be explained, but the Factory said they were
investigating it.

A friend in Oxford has a jack-shaft mounted on a stand that failed in conjunction with the water pump
and destroyed his Stag engine...twice.

The best thing to do with it is to throw it as far as you can with either hand, replace it with an EWP,
then forget about stripping skew gears and breaking the cam-chain, special filling methods, over-heating,
air-locks, cavitation, slipping impellors, pump cover clearance, head gaskets, warped heads, pump seals,
pump bearings, water leaking from the hole in the side of the block and a myriad of other ailments that
the clockwork pump is responsible for.

I fitted an EWP to a Sprint engine in a TR7...there are some pictures here
http://s991.photobucket.com/user/stag76 ... t=3&page=1

Cobber
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Cobber » 14 Dec 2016 11:14

I agree whole heartedly with Stag, on this........EWPs are the future.
I don't see any point in buggerising about with the old pump, fix it properly once and you won't have to fix it forever more!
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

'80 Triumph TR7.
'97 Ford Falcon Longreach 'S' ute,
'98 MG-F.
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign S3.

FI Spyder
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby FI Spyder » 14 Dec 2016 15:28

My water pump hasn't failed yet (109,000 miles). I thought I might have to do it when I first got the car ten years ago (86,000 miles) as when I pulled the stuff on the Rh side of the engine bay to detail it I could see the rust seepage from the rectangular hole in the block. It was dry however so I took a chance and after taping off the engine bay spray painted the engine. It has not leaked since I got it. Neither has it overheated including stop and go city traffic or parades (sometimes up into the eighties). I've never had the chance to drive it in 90+F weather except when I drove it the 900 miles back from California when I first bought it. The temp gauge is rock solid between 1/4 and 1/2 varying about a needle width with various driving conditions. The only weakness I can see is that the jackshaft isn't on bearings (cost savings in production) however with engines lasting 180,000 miles I'm not sure you could call it a weakness. The weakness in the system is a clogged (or corroded) radiator but that is more lack of maintenance than an engineering fault. True I have replaced the radiator because of leaks but I have also had to do that on my Toyota and Acura (not cars known for their weaknesses) at about the same mileage.

The caveat is it is an FI engine which are said to run cooler. It does have the thermostat mounted horizontally (vs. vertical for a carbed engine) so you can mount it with the jiggle valve at the top so there is never any air in the system. Not sure how much difference this make in practise but seems to be an issue.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

Beans
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Beans » 14 Dec 2016 21:25

Main cause for leaks is rust on the underside of the impeller so that needs to be rectified during any rebuild ...

Image

Image
Image
1976 TR7 FHC (currently being restored ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng)

http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/

Hasbeen
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Re: water pump rebuild

Postby Hasbeen » 15 Dec 2016 00:58

If you do rebuild it, make sure you do it properly. Mine [TR7] was rebuilt by the professionals when the engine was built. They had done everything by the book, but not by their head.

When the car was back on the road it would overheat about half the time to start with, them permanently. A new radiator & thermo fan did not fix this.

Finally we pulled the pump, & found the new impellor loose on the new shaft. After pinning the impellor to the shaft the overheating miraculously disappeared.

It is working so well that the other day I towed a trailer loaded with a couple of hundred weight 99 kilometres, in 100 F heat, with the air conditioning going flat out, & the gauge did not make it to 3/8Th on the scale. I know from checking with the infra red thermometer that this is 92 or 3 at the top of the engine outlet.

Although I don't doubt the system can be improved, particularly if the car is used in stop start traffic, mine is up to the job, once made to work properly.

Hasbeen

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