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DHC Bumper mounts

Posted: 18 Mar 2015 16:48
by Kermimga
Has anyone tried the Polyethylene bumper mounts advertised on ebay usa for $79 pair as they claim to eliminate bumper droop from our now ageing rubber mounts?

KEITH BARRETT

Posted: 19 Mar 2015 23:48
by nick
Looks interesting.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191502170625? ... Track=true

Image[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Posted: 20 Mar 2015 05:05
by john 215
Hi Keith,


[:D] WELCOME TO THE BEST TR7 / 8 FORUM IN THE WORLD EVER [8D]


Well spotted mate, look like a good solution to the problem, a couple have been sold so hopefully to someone on here. It does say they are a little thinner than original but if a problem can be easy over come by spacers or some may call them washers !

May be just a coincidence but we had a 92RRANDAL ( the sellers name ) hang around here, not posted since Jan 13 same gentlemen [?][?][?]


Cheers John



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LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX

1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

Posted: 20 Mar 2015 08:16
by dursleyman
The details say they are made from polyethylene so that suggests they are effectively "solid". Seems to me that they won't do what the originals were supposed to - allow some flex - but will just bolt the bumper securely to the car?

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Posted: 20 Mar 2015 10:40
by saabfast
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john 215</i>

It does say they are a little thinner than original but if a problem can be easy over come by spacers or some may call them washers !

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It says the thickness difference is 1-2mm, I don't think BL built them to that finer tolerance!!.

As many seem to take the weights off the ends of the bumper to cure the droop and report no real change in shake the loss in flexibility will not make much difference. The 'harmonic damper' does not work without the weights anyway.

Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC
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Posted: 20 Mar 2015 19:22
by nick
I shimmed mine at the bottom of the mounts which forces the ends up to take out the sag. Not very elegant but it works.

Image[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Posted: 20 Mar 2015 19:38
by DNK
What would be easier to do
Aluminum or poly?

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
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Posted: 20 Mar 2015 19:53
by Last TR
I removed my bumper weights without eliminating end droop or increasing vibration. My rubber mounts seemed solid when I removed the entire bumper for inspection. I don't think bad rubber mounts are the cause of the droop on my car. Maybe I'm missing something here, but it seems like the center pivot connecting the bumper to the car keeps the bumper from tilting backwards regardless of condition of the rubber mounts. I'm wondering if the weight hanging on the bumper ends for 35 years of bouncing along has gradually bent the metal bumper ends themselves? As well as drooping, the metal bumper ends seem to have spread away from the body somewhat. I'm thinking some reshaping of the metal may be in order.

Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska
Image Image Image
1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

Posted: 20 Mar 2015 21:30
by darrellw
I also think part of what people interpret as droop is just the fact that the covers are the same between the DHC and FHC. With the bumper moved out an inch in on the DHC, the ends don't tuck up as tight with the body, and it looks like droop.

I just removed the mounts and have the bumper mounted directly to the frame. You have to drill some holes, but the bolt right up otherwise.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Posted: 21 Mar 2015 05:33
by Last TR
They definitely droop on my car. I plan to pull the bumper back off and do as Darrell suggests, but I think I may have to bend some metal too. My rubber covers are in pretty bad shape, so I'm hoping to fit new UK spec bumper covers from Rimmer Bros.

Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska
Image Image Image
1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

Posted: 21 Mar 2015 06:56
by andyf
Good solution by the looks of things, but I just welded my mounts up as the rubber had gone which cured the bumper droop problem with no noticeable difference to scuttle shake.

Image
1980 Persian Aqua DHC

Posted: 21 Mar 2015 12:12
by FI Spyder
My bumpers didn't droop after 30+ years and over 100,000 miles. The bumpers do sit a little forward and are formed down at the ends to allow some flex with the weights so they don't come in contact with the paint (given BL's acceptance of tolerances). I removed the weights when I had the bumper apart to check on condition of stuff underneath, touch some with POR-15 and brush on some paint extender on front interior body part. Not to try and reduce bumper droop but to lighten things up and see if they affected scuttle shake. There was no noticeable difference, not that there wasn't any but I suspect it's not night and day but where you would have to compare two cars side by side alternately driving them over the same type of rough road to notice. Just like removing the weights isn't going to make any noticeable difference to acceleration times except that shown by a stop watch. Sometimes the differences are more in the mind's eye and more dependant on the amount of money and time spent than any physical difference.

I personally like the N/A bumpers better than the European multi piece ones (as do some over there).



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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