tr7triumph.com

My reversing lights come on when I engage forward gears as well as reverse.
Does this tell me the switch on the gearbox is shot, or should I look elsewhere.

I would say the little mounting bracket on the top right of the change extension, the switch mounts through is bent, putting it too close to the gearstick.

Bend it back, or adjust the mounting to fix.

Hasbeen

4 or 5 speed? On the 5 speed you will have to remove the center console and access the switch through the gear stick hole. Try backing the switch out of the gear change unit a few turns since it is a plunger type switch. However, it would be strange for it, to all of a sudden, be too deep in the hole. You may need to remove it and see if the plunger is stuck in.

I don't remember how the switch is mounted on the 4 speed.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

It is a 5 speed Nick. I have the switch out and it moves freely.
I am not sure what is the mounting bracket Hasbeen speaks of. It screws directly in to the change extension.
I may be able to borrow another switch and see what that does.

That's interesting troubadour, mine is on a small metal bracket, bent at about right angles, bolted to the extension, with the switch through it.

I have no idea if this was Triumph, or an owner modification, to correct a previous problem.

Hasbeen

Just going from memory, I think mine is on said bracket of which Hasbeen speaks. I remember thinking it was a little flimsy at the time.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

I just did this fix two days ago on my 5-speed. The old switch had died when the plastic top section broke off. There was nothing to hold the spring in place, which keeps pressure on the switch plunger. This one screwed directly into the extension, with only an extra nut to tighten it in place. No extra bracket.

You can take the switch out from the top, but putting a new one back in is tough from up there. I had to come from below to get the thread started, then tightened it down from inside the car. Once it is near where you think it belongs, plug in the wiring loom, turn on the ignition switch, put the car in reverse and screw in the switch until the backup lights come on. Drop it out of reverse and check that they go off. If not, adjust the position until they do, then tighten down the nut that holds the switch in place.

Put it all back together and you are done!




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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

It seems that I will need a new switch.
Even though it moves freely out of the car and drowning it in penetrating/lubricating fluid it just stays on when it is taken out of reverse.
Thanks All for your replies

A few thoughts before you scrap the switch. Have you tested it with a multimeter? Can it be taken apart? If the spring works it could just be a connection that's easily repaired.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Sorry to jump in here, my reversing lights do not work, changed bulbs etc, but am I correct in that the switch makes the contact(circuit) and that when the ignition is switched on there should be power at the cable to the switch. I wired up a test lamp here but it didnt light up.

Any thoughts.

Many thanks

SJ

Yes, provided its in reverse of course. Try adjustment of the switch before looking at replacement. I assume everything else works OK so it is not a fuse.

Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

I think the switch acts as a break in the earth (like door light switches) so you should not get power there. If you take the wire off the switch and ground it when ignition is on the lights should come on. If they do it is the switch, if not the problem is elsewhere.

I think that's right, I am sure someone can correct me if I am not.


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

Can't get to my UK wiring diagrams atm but an American one on the net shows the feed from the ignition switch through fuse 2 (may be US No only), through the reverse switch to the bulbs and ground. Either way there should be power at the bulb holder if the ignition is on and the car in reverse.

Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

A bit late, but here is a picture of the 5 speed and the reverse switch:

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by smoking joe</i>

Sorry to jump in here, my reversing lights do not work, changed bulbs etc, but am I correct in that the switch makes the contact(circuit) and that when the ignition is switched on there should be power at the cable to the switch. I wired up a test lamp here but it didnt light up.

Any thoughts.

Many thanks

SJ
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Don't forget there are two connectors that you should check as well, the one close to the switch and the one on top of the bellhousing near the bulkhead.

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/