LT77 Gear Change Remote Setup

[dursleyman]

My project car has a problem with the gear selection. Its a good box but the usual positive bias to the 3rd/4th plane is missing and instead its quite vague so its easy to miss a gear if you are not careful. I have the box out at the moment as I am building a new Sprint engine for it so now is the time to fix the problem. The remote bushes are all new.
I have the manual in front of me to see how to set up the remote but are there any other tricks which help or things to watch out for?

The serial number on the box is:- CL-105210 C

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[FI Spyder]

There are a couple of springs and adjusting bolts at the top by the selector with adjusting bolts to select the biasing you are after.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Hasbeen]

That spring is a hair pin type spring. You have to lever the arms out & over the lugs on the sides of the ball of the changer leaver.

Hasbeen

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Adjustment bolts and springs are attached to the side of the bottom cover plate on the shift housing. See photo at the bottom of this [url="http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Triumph_TR-7.html#3"]page.[/url]

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[dursleyman]

Had a go at it today. The whole gearbox was completely plastered in oily gunge and it had one of those "jelly" gearbox mountings that I have read about on here. Took a while but it is now mostly clean and the remote setup thing turned out to be much simpler than I thought. When you actually follow the steps as per the manual it does make sense and it all seems to be OK now. The change feels quite nice and positive but any further testing will have to wait until its all back in the car.
Also drained the oil, less than a pint came out and it looks redish in colour so probably ATF. Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh will be going back in. In view of the low oil level and oil residue everywhere its obviously been leaking somewhere so I will replace the front mainshaft seal while I have the chance.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[Workshop Help]

If I may respectfully suggest, this is a good time to replace the rear oil seal, too. In fact, this is also a really good time to pull the rear extension and clean out the accumulated swarf around the oil pump AND replace the rear mainshaft bearing with one that is shielded on one side. Then while you're at it the O-ring for the selector shaft can be swapped out.

Mildred Hargis