tr7triumph.com

Albeit very slowly..

I'm starting to make plans for Carmel (left of pic). After 30+ years of 13" wheels I'm thinking of going to 15" MGF's. This is so i can get better tyres and bigger brakes (Hi-Spec). I want to keep the suspension as stock as possible, standardish polybush, UK pothole spec springs, gas shocks etc.. Back end will need a little help as towing caravan occasionally.. and poss V8 conversion in the future.

I'm looking for suggestions on springs/shocks/bushes/tyres etc. based on experience please!

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<b><font color="blue">croydebay@aol.com</b></font id="blue">

Hi Steve,

My experience in rebuilding the suspension and moving to 15 inch wheels is that the car was totally transformed.

The driving feel became much more refined and all the slop, slip and slough was replaced by predictable precision.

This involved fitting:
- 15 x 6 inch wheels
- Falken ZE329 195/55 to front
- Falken ZE326 205/50 to rear
- Poly bushes everywhere except front lower spring isolators and rear top and bottom isolators (This was only because there was nothing wrong with the original rubber at time of renovation)
- Spax top adjustable front strut inserts
- Koni bottom adjustable rear shocks
- 200lb 1 inch lowered springs (front and rear, locally manufactured).

I did get it wrong first time with the rear springs - they were too short and too hard at ~240lb, which left the car with a nose-up stance and too little give in the rear over any bumps.

I run 34psi in the front tyres and 26-28psi in the rear. Any more in the rear tyres and the ride suffers on rough surfaces.





Hope this helps. Choosing the right springs seems critical in this circumstance.

Owen

[addendum]
I retained the standard anti-roll bars on both front and rear and continue to run the front without anti-dive block mountings. The front brake dive became negligible following the suspension upgrade.

Hi Steve, Alan n Angela here. I think i know what you mean i would use the same as Sydney Wedgehead, Suggests except New set of standard springs and all polyurethane bushes everywhere, And uprated rear anti-roll bar. You can turn the shockers up until the ride is not over firm. And 30 psi all round.I found if i go any more i get uneven tyre wear.
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Thanks for suggestions so far peeps..



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<b><font color="blue">croydebay@aol.com</b></font id="blue">

Suggestions from when our cars were current......

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... C_ID=20145





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

I have long been a fan of Stevie A's wheels and I see Bonnietiler has also just fitted a set.. Not too original then but came across these and couldn't pass them up.. please don't hate me.. Might be the first set on a FHC?



Thank-you Bushytrader for posting the article.. I read it back in the day and I will read it again soon!



<b><font color="blue">http://www.croyde-bay.com/triumph.htm</font id="blue"></b>

<b><font color="blue">croydebay@aol.com</b></font id="blue">

Just put the decal "Magnette" on the trunk lid like the original mock up and watch the My Gosh boys get their patties in a knot.[:D]



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT