tr7triumph.com

Hi All
Step by step getting my wedge into shape.
Next job, Fit headlights, The sealed beam candles require changing, Recommendations and advice would be appreciated, Is it difficult to get those rusty screws out the rubber surround, Looks like it will be. Thanks as always.
Regards
Gareth.

G.P.Albrighton

The rubber surrounds have have washer embedded. They mostly come lose rendering the fasteners ineffective. Once out they can be re-glued. I have tried a few different products and found Shoe-Goo to work very well. I think JClay may have a piece on this on his website.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

I fitted Wipac Quadoptic (with halogen bulbs) in place of the old sealed beam units. Very easy and quick to change (if those bolts come out). They are the same as the Mini ones but without the sidelight hole, cost about £35 including bulbs IIRC and they are better than the candles.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

I can't tell the difference between the stock headlights in the 7, the Integra light bulbs in the Toyota, or the super Nighthawks in the Integra. Mind you the 7 runs at 14.75 volts (with battery fully charged) and lights, heater, turn signals don't change much except maybe a little at idle. All connections are clean so am not losing any to resistance. Mind you I can't/don't run them side by side for comparison. I do have halogens and relay kit but it's not a priority (obviously). I would put HID's in but to be really effective they need to change their position to change focus to go from high beam to low bean so there's more to it than just plugging in a bulb but how much better I don't know. My brother-in-law has HID's to install in his Miata, I'll see how he gets on.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Gareth, I have never had a problem to undo the screws that hold on the rubber surround. They are quite deeply recessed but get a crosshead screwdriver in there, go carefully until you are sure you have the screwdriver in the screw head. The washers on the back of the surround often come off & you need to refix those, superglue or suchlike.

Undo the 3 small cross head screws holding the chrome trim ring (don't undo the slotted alignment screws by mistake), remove the ring & the candle power sealed beam units just lift out, unplug the connector.

Get the H4 conversion kit from one of the specialists, I got mine from James Paddock but they all do the kit. At the same time get a set of Osram Nightbreaker H4 bulbs, these fit straight in place of the H4 bulbs in the kit. They are the same wattage so will not take any extra current. I have done this on both my cars & it does make a difference. It is worth checking the beam alignment to maximise the benefit.

Clean the headlamp connectors while it's all apart. Dab of copper grease on the trim ring screws & the screws for the rubber surround will help any future dismantling.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

Do fit relays to the lights when you change them, your switch will live longer as will your globes because they will not suffer voltage drop through the inadequate switch. An added bonus of using relays is your lights will be brighter.


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

DISCONNECT the battery when you change the bulbs!!! Use the knobs under the headlight motor to raise the units. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE UNITS if you like having them!

Micheal Hart install lights on his Spider that burns the paint off the car in front of him. I think he put in relays also. It is not hard to do, just takes a little time. I have my fog lights on relays. Also saves the switches.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Or raise the headlights and then disconnect the battery.

I have a "Dis-car-nect" set up on my battery which acts as a security device and is very useful if I have to do any electrical jobs.

Any of the dealers will sell you new headlights with H4 bulbs which are more than adequate - but it is very worthwhile while your doing them to sort out the earth points and the two sets of connectors - a good clean will make one heck of a difference.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

Hi all.
Update
The headlight conversion kit arrived ok, But just as I guessed, The rubber surround securing screws have all rusted in, Can't budge them, One day I will do a job easy Ho Ho Ho.
Can't see any other way other than drilling off the heads,Deep recess, Any surgestions very welcome PLEASE.
Best regards
Gareth.


G.P.Albrighton

Try using a Dremel tool with the grinding bits. It might take several bits to finally grind off the screw head. This Dremel technique also worked well in grinding off the rivet heads on the footwell vent plate.

Next we'll be discussing how to make a Western Plains beef tips stew with corn muffins.

Mildred Hargis

Good evening Mildrid
Thanks for the tip. Just cant get drill/dremmel to drill/grind in the right spot.
Decided to cut off the rubber surounds with a very sharp knife and replace with new ones, Well second hand ones anyway.
Many thanks for the tip though.
Best regards
Gareth.

G.P.Albrighton

All

As I was rebuilding / repairing my surrounds I added a piece of plastic tube to the rubber surround about an inch long to each hole. Most of the washers had broken free so as I inserted the tube, using shoe glue, I then added the new washers giving them a liberal amount of glue also.

The tube now gives a perch for a washer to sit on to tighten the surround down on the frame work of the light housing. Here allen head screws replaced the phillips head.

One can not tell it as been modified unless you look really hard down the attachment hole.

Dale
1974 TR6
1977 TR7 FHC

Update
Hi all, I didn't have to cut the rubber surrounds off, They just pulled off, All eight of the washers pulled off the back as you would expect, screws seized into back plate, taking a long time drilling all screws out. At this time four down four to go.
New halogen units tried and as expected far brighter.
Once again, Many thanks to all and the forum.
Regards Gareth.

G.P.Albrighton

The next obvious step:

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Head_Light_Surround.html

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Hi,

From my point of view still the easiest and most reliable way of fixing the problem; http://triumphtr7v8coupe.blogspot.be/20 ... round.html

Greetings, J.