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Slave Cylinder thread size

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UKPhilTR7
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Slave Cylinder thread size

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 Jan 2014 01:05

I am just looking to confirm the thread size of the slave cylinder bleed nut. I think it is either M10 or 8.

Does anyone know for sure the size of it (and hopefully length), without me having to take out the old one off and check it on the tap and die set.

Cheers,
Phil

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 13 Jan 2014 04:58

Hi Phil,

8mm mate as mentioned recently in this thread -

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... erms=slave

Cheers John

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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 Jan 2014 08:51

Hi John, thanks for your reply and the link. I had a look and it looks like the the 8 mm is the size of the thread bolt holding on the slave, not the bleed nut thread size [:)]

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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 13 Jan 2014 11:26

They are the same, that is why so many people put them on wrong. PS, get speed bleeders!

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http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Sizes:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

Clay

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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 Jan 2014 19:24

Oh I got you, thanks guys for the reply. I have to take the cylinder off this weekend to see if the little leak I have is a result of the seals gone. If they are a new one will be needed and will put on speed breeders for sure. Have looked at them in the past and think they are the way to go, to try and make the whole process a bit quicker and easier.

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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 14 Jan 2014 13:14

OK,

I know that I have said this before, but I am just trying to save you some aggravation. Most people STRIP out the threads in the bellhousing while trying to replace the slave cylinder. You can never put enough pressure on the cylinder by hand to seat the cylinder. The bolts are too short to pull in up and you will strip out the very beginnings of the threads. It is a blind hole, hard to get a tap into and you still have the same problem if you can save the threads.

Easy fix! While you have everything apart, take the bolts and go buy two more about 1/4" longer. When you install the cylinder, use the LONGER bolts and just snug them up. Now, remove ONE of the bolts and replace it with the original bolt. This one you can tighten down. Replace the other long bolt. Easy-peasy!

Clay

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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 19 Jan 2014 23:43

Ok guys I am going to order a M8 speed blender for the slave cylinder as I need to replace it and think why not do it now.

However, looking at the list there is four length options. Rather than buy all four and pick the one I need, then throw the rest away. Can anyone tell me the length that I need to order in the M8 for the slave?

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Postby Hasbeen » 20 Jan 2014 02:08

Phil, it is now time for you to realise you are no longer actually UK Phil, but are now Sydney Phil.

That being the case, it is time for you to start behaving in the Ozzie cheapskate way.

We in Oz don't buy new master cylinders for Pommy cars, it's too expensive. We take our old master cylinder to a brake shop, who will bore it out, sleeve it with a stainless steel sleeve, & give it back to you, better than original. Your "remanufactured" master will now outlive the car by some decades.

This will probably not save you all that much money, but will give you a warn feeling that you have managed to avoid being ripped off by some overseas parts company.

Now this may not be true in our case, with out Triumph suppliers, but what the hell, it is with most makes.

You have definitely been here long enough to start thinking like an ex convict, [}:)] or the descendent of one. Do get up to speed. [:D]

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 20 Jan 2014 04:40

I like your way of thinking but some habits die hard the old I get lol .

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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 23 Jan 2014 23:34

So the latest, with the slave off and rusty water drops and other fluids in the slave cylinder rubber seal, I decided to buy a new one (before the advice of my fellow Australian :)). That is on its way and there has been no little drop patches under my car since. I have also purchased a speed bleeder from America. After a bit of searching it looked like the one I needed was SB1010S. So that is on order and making its way to sunny Australia.

I hope that when all these are back on and the bleeder is the right one, the leak on my car stops. If not it has sure got to help it, from looking at the state of the slave when I took it off.

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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 24 Jan 2014 00:46

When does a Triumph stop leaking . . . .

When it is empty!

Clay

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 24 Jan 2014 13:31

My Spider leaks a couple of drops over the winter on a clean sheet of cardboard which I keep there to keep an eye on it, about the same as my eight year newer Toyota and my 11 year newer Integra. Pretty good all in all.



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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 29 Jan 2014 19:33

Oh yes I heard that about our cars that they like to leak a bit. Before I did the last job she didn't thought or not that I noticed anyway. Now three drops on the mat. I hope the new slave cylinder helps sort it out, but think I may have more than one leak. First I thought it may be over full then I noticed q drip on the oil pump.

So now I qm looking towards the o ring needs changing. I have looked all around but cannot find a sign of where it is coming from. So my plan is put the slave on when it comes and then go from there.

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 30 Jan 2014 13:34

My major leak when I bought the car was from the oil pump. The O rings from the pump and the pressure release piston were so hard they broke into pieces when I went to dig them out with a pick.


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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 31 Jan 2014 10:36

Oh gosh, hope the pump has not got too. This is the look from under the engine and as you can see the drip is coming from the pump. I have looked around and cannot see it originating from anywhere else.

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