tr7triumph.com

Posted: **03 Nov 2013 20:10**

Hi,

I'm having some problems with a burned light switch connector. I've been trying to locate the part number but with no succes.

Would like to replace it; anyone got a part number or a connector for sale?

Regards, J.

Posted: **03 Nov 2013 20:18**

<s>British wiring has them with spade terminals
You'd have to do some cutting and crimping</s>

EDIT: Never mind . thought it was a connector and not the back to a switch

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 00:06**

I swapped one not quite as bad as that to another switch that had less terminals, & used the better one for the lights. Bit fiddly, but worked.

Before you replace it this way, or with new, best go find what was putting too high a drain on that one, or the same thing will happen to your replacement.

Hasbeen

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 05:29**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Hasbeen

I swapped one not quite as bad as that to another switch that had less terminals, & used the better one for the lights. Bit fiddly, but worked.

Before you replace it this way, or with new, best go find what was putting too high a drain on that one, or the same thing will happen to your replacement.

Hasbeen
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi,

Had the same idea to replace the connector with the Front Fog connector as it is the same but with only two terminals, but like you said; it's a bit of a fiddle. Tried to disconect the terminals but gave up as I didn't want to mess them up.

About the cause; It's the second time this happens, because of the heat the little push rod in the switch starts to melt and after a while it's impossible to move the switch or the lights just turn off whilst driving.

All worked fine and my guess is that the male terminals are a little bit to loose in the female terminals.
Had no lights yesterday but after narrowing the female terminals all was well again.

Did replace the original head light bulbs with Halogen ones but I don't think this could be the cause...
So for the moment I stick with the terminals idea as a cause, we'll see.

J.

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 10:10**

If you have halogen lights you must fit relays to the lighting circuits.
Don't argue, just do it! [:D]
The switch gear is inadequate for the standard lighting let alone upgrades.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 12:12**

[quote]Originally posted by Cobber
If you have halogen lights you must fit relays to the lighting circuits.

I understood that the halogen lights drew exactly the same current as the standard lights, but that it was the presence of halogen that rendered them more efficient and thus brighter. Notwithstanding always a good idea to fit relays as I suspect the original system is a bit marginal. supercass

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 12:56**

If there is any resistance in the connection there will be excessive heat. This could be corrosion or even oxide build up from a loose connection. Keep the connection as clean as you can get it. Di-electric grease helps as well to prevent this. If the connections are not good you can get arcing as well. I had arcing in my Tercel headlight connector and it was blowing the headlight bulbs every couple of months. I replaced it with another connector from another car at the auto wreckers and it's been fine ever since.

Really good idea to put in relays to take load off the switch. I've got halogens in boxes and relay kit but haven't put them in yet as my standard headlights are quite bright, almost as good as on my Tercel and the Nighthawks in my Integra. Can't notice much difference, mind you I don't compared them side by side.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 13:00**

Like many, I have had the same problem.

I would really like to have a relay for the headlights

I have done ok cleaning connections and tracing wires that have problems on my car, but I get nervous when changes should be made.

I would need some good instructions and list of parts to do this. Are there any existing documents out there that could walk me through this process?

I see there is a kit on Victoria British. Anyone use this one? http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tr/full.aspx?Page=97

Rob

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 13:00**

Even if they are the same wattage they should still be run through relays as they don't much like current lose through the rubbish standard switch gear

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 16:23**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Cobber

... If you have halogen lights you must fit relays to the lighting circuits.
Don't argue, just do it!
The switch gear is inadequate for the standard lighting let alone upgrades ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
oops, forgot to tell that to my electrical system (in case of 't Kreng), so it still doesn't know how to behave in proper Lucas style after 15 years [:D]

<center>

1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My full Weblog[/url]</center>

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 19:31**

Beans, you tempt fate when you say things like that! Next thing you know you'll be at the side of the road in the dark....

[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 20:07**

That will be this Saturday in deepest darkest Belgium during our Night Rally [:I]

<center>

1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My full Weblog[/url]</center>

Posted: **04 Nov 2013 21:51**

Get a set like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-0-703- ... 19e453ddf7

I have used these to disconnect the round female connectors from the plastic plugs without damage, although it is a bit fiddly. Once you get them out you can just crimp them a little to make a better connection with the male side on the switch before you fit them into a replacement plug. Just make a drawing of which colour goes where before you start[:)]

Tony

1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

Posted: **05 Nov 2013 08:57**

I agree with copper ... Install a relay .. Your switch and lasts a long time .. I had the rocker are too weak to Holgenlampen also the E-Type..
[8)]

It's no big deal

: to your Questing ask http://www.britishwiring.com/3-Way-3mm-Pin-Socket-Connector-p/c823.htm
Hello from Switzerland

Frank

Posted: **05 Nov 2013 09:21**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder

If there is any resistance in the connection there will be excessive heat. This could be corrosion or even oxide build up from a loose connection. Keep the connection as clean as you can get it. Di-electric grease helps as well to prevent this. If the connections are not good you can get arcing as well.

Hi, I think you can read my mind; had the same opinion...

Really good idea to put in relays to take load off the switch.

Guess this will be the cars' next upgrade. Saw a good link in this topic.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks all for the imput, but still no part number for the socket?

J.

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Light switch connector

Light switch connector