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Ok, its a 2.0L, I have still not been able to remove the studs, access is a bit of a problem so I am planning the remove the engine with an engine hoist.

Is it best to remove the engine and gearbox or just the engine and leave the gearbox in place?

I then plan to weld nuts to the studs and try again - last attempt I think.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by prlee</i>

Ok, its a 2.0L, I have still not been able to remove the studs, access is a bit of a problem so I am planning the remove the engine with an engine hoist.

Is it best to remove the engine and gearbox or just the engine and leave the gearbox in place?

I then plan to weld nuts to the studs and try again - last attempt I think.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Check out this device first. I think there are a few in the UK for hire from TR7 clubs:

http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/twoa-tool-rentals.html

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/32647-now-this-is-what-i-call-a-cylinderhead-removal-tool/

Once those nasty ol' studs are out, will you be yet another convert to your dear ol' Aunt Mildred's Grade 8 head bolt conversion?

Mildred Hargis

if it was my car , I'd make it a winter project.
First I'd drop the whole assembly out of the bottom , replace all the gaskets and loose ends , then clean and detail everything including the engine bay and reassembly in time for spring ...but that's just me [;)]

Ron.

Both of the times that I have had my engine out it has been with the gearbox still attached. With the back end jacked up it seemed to come out nice. Though saying that I think if it has to come out again I will try the from the bottom route next time

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

Once those nasty ol' studs are out, will you be yet another convert to your dear ol' Aunt Mildred's Grade 8 head bolt conversion?

Mildred Hargis
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mildred, I am newish and working on a stag engine now, can you give me details of your grade 8 bolt conversion for my reassy?

Thanks

Choices, I have a few weeks before I decide.

I like the head removal tool, have to check around to see if I can find one.

Yes Mildred, I have seen your comments on these bolts before, like the idea.

Definately a winter project, bit like all the others [:D]

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.

I have done it all 3 ways and none are that difficult, it really depends what tools you have, if you lift it out from the top you need a hoist with a long reach, to drop it out the bottom you need to get the car 2 feet up in the air, I prefer to seperate the engine and box as it is easier to move around and less likely to damage things as you pull it out.

Good People! Please use the SEARCH function at the top right of your screen. Therein will be found the Wisdom of the Ancients, including the Grade 8, head bolt conversion sagas.

It's really no big deal. Cheaper, stronger, no retorquing, the next head removal will take no longer than 45 minutes, and you'll even like the color.

The actual hardest part will be changing your mindset from trusting the original engineers to trusting your own logic. After all, what is a stud anyway? It's just a decapitated bolt.

Mildred Hargis

If you are putting the head on with motor in car (not tilted on an engine stand) does not the studs hold the head and gasket in place till all bolts put in? With just bolts you'd have to hold head/gasket in place with one hand till you have them in.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Nothing wrong with keeping a couple of used studs suitable cleaned & polished up, to screw gently into the block to hold the head still & in place, while some of the permanent bolts are installed.

In my racing days with the Cosworth 105 & 115E Ford Cortina based engines, all bolted, & with pretty sloppy bolts as well, we had carefully matched heads, gaskets & bores. Some doweled their head to block joint, or like us machined up a couple of studs, with a tight fitting shoulder to locate everything just so, while the bolts went in.

Hasbeen