tr7triumph.com

I have read mixed reviews on these. Sounds sort of Mickey Mouse. Has anyone tried them.

Cutting these springs is a problem since since they have pigtail ends and need to be bent to shape after cutting. That means heat which isn't so good for the springs.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Hi Nick,

Personaly would'nt use either but get the correct lowered springs. Over here a car would poss. fail it's M.O.T. under the following -

I quote from tester manual,

" repaired by welding or <u><font color="red">damaged by excessive heat.</font id="red"></u> "

Also mentioned in the M.O.T. -

Once again I quote -

Where a coil spring is incomplete, cracked or fractured at an extreme end where the spring locates on the spring mount, it should only be rejected if:

. <u><font color="red">the function of the spring is impaired</font id="red"></u>

. following jacking, the spring ends do not locate correctly when the vehicle is lowered into the normal running position without assistance


<u><font color="red">These criteria should also be applied to springs that have been deliberately shortened or modified in order to lower the suspension.</font id="red"></u>


Would'nt want any form of clamp device becomming 'un' clamped [:0] either !


Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

Nick,

I'm still trying to get a satisfactory ride height on the front of my 8. The car was 3 1/2" low in front when I bought it; I liked the look, but didn't care for the constant bottoming out. I bought new 1" lowering springs from TSI, and they put my ride height at stock; too high for me. I bought some spring clamps to try, but there wasn't sufficient room for them, in front anyway. Bought some generic coils from a mail order spring place, but the diameter of the pigtail was a bit too big. Next week I'm taking my old collapsed coils and my new too-big-pigtail coils to Benz Spring in Portland to see if they can do anything with either of them. I may see if they can shorten the TSI coils. I know they can make coils from scratch, but they're very expensive. I'll let you know what I learn.



Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

How could an MOT tester tell if a spring was excessively damaged by heat? It is interesting to note that in some places, Australia iirc for e.g., re tempering and resetting springs seems to be done almost as routine, whereas in the U.K. to my knowledge it is almost unheard of and replacement springs are purchased. supercass

Supercass that could be a matter of rust. I have a collection of TR7 springs, & apart from ones I have had reset to a new free height, they are all fully painted, with their original paint. They have absolutely no rust on them at all.

It could be that any rust pits will give local stress points, after retempering, or it might be our industry developed that way, because so many of our cars are imported, waiting to get new springs was a pain.

We have spring shops you take your springs only too, & shops you take your car too, tell them how much you want it raised or lowered, they do the rest, & they give it back to you, just as you asked for.

The same thing goes for brakes. I have never thought of replacing a wheel, slave or master cylinder. In the old days we would just hone a worn cylinder out to take the next larger [& only slightly larger] rubber components. Today we get them sleeved back to original with a stainless sleeve.

Struts for bonnet/hood & boot/trunk are regassed, as the metal work is still sound.

I had a business which included overhauling MacPherson struts, in the 60s. We would machine & rechrome the shafts, fit new undersize bearings & seals, valves where necessary, & sell them for about 30% of a complete new suspension leg.

It is all a matter of how the local repair business developed.

I must admit I am horrified to throw out a perfectly good mechanical fuel pump, when all it needs is a diaphragm & a couple of valves to be like new. Again in the old days when poor oil meant the cam follower would be worn, we would build these up with brass [with the oxy gear], & regrind them. There was also a trick with US built cars[ 20s & 30s] where a threepenny piece [remember them], could be put in a recess between the cam follower arm, & the diaphragm, to take up any wear of the follower face.

Ah, those were the days, when women were women, [}:)] & a horse still did a day's work. [:D]



Hasbeen

Hi Supercass,

It would have to something obvious, you can tell by looking at a peice of metal how hot its been heated by the corrosion or colour change or for instance if it had moltern in any small area's. As with most things on the test its a matter of opinion, if in doubt pass and advice. If been repainted you are never going to know. This heated thing also exstends to steering parts too, such as track rod ends etc.

Agree with you Hasbeen, with live in a throw away world. At work we dont even rebuild gearboxes [:0] just fit new ! Poss for the best as most of the young guy's wouldn't know how to fit a set of points let alone rebuild a gearbox [:o)] That's where the skill has gone out of my job, they are just ' fiiters' now [V]

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!