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<b><font color="teal">can someone do me a favor and post a photo of the dash pod with the ignition on so I can see what lights go on

Does the coolant light come on ?</font id="teal"></b>


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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

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Yes, together with ignition and oil

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

<font color="teal"><b>Thanks Beans

not got coolant light but I am doing a lot to the dash just now

will post later on what I have been up to </b></font id="teal">

<font size="1">very cryptic </font id="size1">

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In that case easy to check if the bulb is blown,
other culprit is corrosion on the sender in the header tank.

Is it really that cryptic [:p]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

<font color="teal"><b>yip I am changing my dash about

also found new style led lights for the said coolant and ignition etc

just trying to get it all working and forgot what should go on with ignition.</b></font id="teal">

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Stevie,
Be aware that ignition light (bulb)typically forms part of the excitation circuit for the alternator. LED unlikely to function correctly in this role. Typically leave conventional bulb in the ignition warning socket.

To excite the alternator on initial turn on, 12 volts flows from battery via bulb (lights up) to excite alternator field winding. When rotating/generating output volts the alternator will self excite and at same time provide 12 volts back to the alternator warning bulb effectively cancelling out the 12 volt supply from battery (equal volts both side of bulb = no current flow = no bulb on).
Hope this helps.
Regards, Daryl M

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmtrmp6</i>

Stevie,
Be aware that ignition light (bulb)typically forms part of the excitation circuit for the alternator. LED unlikely to function correctly in this role. Typically leave conventional bulb in the ignition warning socket.

To excite the alternator on initial turn on, 12 volts flows from battery via bulb (lights up) to excite alternator field winding. When rotating/generating output volts the alternator will self excite and at same time provide 12 volts back to the alternator warning bulb effectively cancelling out the 12 volt supply from battery (equal volts both side of bulb = no current flow = no bulb on).
Hope this helps.
Regards, Daryl M
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<font color="teal"><b>You are sooooo Right

never even entered my thick head.

"TA"

the new led light in the other slots make a massive difference

when the sun is on the dash you can still see them clearly

</b></font id="teal">



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Stevie - what did you use for all these bulbs?

'80 DHC
Chevy V8 up front
Ford rear end down back
Lucas wiring all over

Odd is the one to ask about LEDs for this purpose, he sold us all LED kits with photographic instructions about 4 years ago.

Gosh it may even be 4+ years ago......

Here is the link

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8855

Jolyon