Page 1 of 1

Fuel Gauge ???

Posted: 17 Jul 2013 17:25
by stevie_a
<font color="teal"><b>At Billing John215 checked out my fuel gauge and was at the thought it was this a fault

as the fuel lights works fine and the wiring looks ok

I was thinking of doing what I did with my Temp gauge and replace it with an independent one, ok you have to cut the back of the dash

but I am not bothered with that, better reliability is more important.

I am looking at this one, will this work??

I note the Specification:


#9702;Fuel gauge parameters: 0 --- 0-10 ohms
1/2---90 ohm
1 full-bit - 180 ohms

Thanks for any help</b>

http://www.ebay.c</font id="teal">o.uk/itm/390627431653?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Image

Image

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

Image Image Imagehttp://www.smallbiztranscripts.co.uk

Posted: 17 Jul 2013 19:29
by Beans
Fuel gauges hardly go wrong, I'd check the tank sender first.
Fuel light gets its signal from a different contact.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Posted: 18 Jul 2013 04:48
by Odd
I'd second Beans comment. Check the sender coil+connections first.
The warning light gets its signal path via its own connectors...
Only the float (also suspicious btw - if you haven't upgraded to the soldered brass one from US Ford)
and arm are common to the two.

Image <font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">
Image

Posted: 18 Jul 2013 15:56
by windy one
I also agree.
Thru many years of (various) wedge ownership, I have never had a fuel gauge go south. It was always either a corroded connection, loose/broken wire or terminal, fuel sender or associated components. More than once I replaced a fuel gauge with a known working one only to find it was a severly corroded sending unit (current 7) or corroded terminals (previous 8).
Not saying your gauge is in fact not the culpret, just expressing my own findings.

Johnny

Posted: 19 Jul 2013 01:34
by RJS
This post tells how to check to see if the problem is the sending unit.

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15400

Posted: 19 Jul 2013 18:58
by saabfast
Hate to be different but when I got my car the gauge only read full with the ignition on (0 when off). I checked all the connections but no joy (must admit I did not take out the float unit but it looked pretty new). I swapped the gauge for one from an ebay 'spare' dash purchase and it has worked fine ever since.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC
Image