tr7triumph.com

Possible steering prob bcse: Inner ball joint was loose, but looking in I discovered a hose clamp!! over the adjusting (?) nut... presumably keep it in place (?) The mechanic I'm working with said he could drill and tap the nut and use a set screw to keep nut from loosening again...
Has anyone had experience adjusting/greasing those inner ball joints? Many thanks
Tom
'76 FHC, V6, under construction

There should be a lock washer with three tabs that keeps it from screwing back out.




<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>
<h4><center>http://cliffstr7sprintconversion.blogspot.com/</center></h4>

Thanks Cliff. Looked at your blog, beautiful motor!
Anyway, I guess that's a washer between the 2 nuts? On mine they are missing. Nothing there. I wonder if they are available... off to the catalogues.

Tom

I have never seen the washer available seperatly, i may have a parts steering rack i could possibly take one off so you can make template.

Another thought, take one off model in CAD package and create drawing

Hoping to get back at it.

I have been working a lot of hours away from home the past few years. I'm replacing the motor in my almost 300,000 mile Dodge ram 1500 at the moment, then honey do's(lots of them)and then insulating my garage for the winter.

So much to do, So little time



<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>
<h4><center>http://cliffstr7sprintconversion.blogspot.com/</center></h4>

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 195r13s</i>

... The mechanic I'm working with said he could drill and tap the nut and use a set screw to keep nut from loosening again...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Haven't seen a NOS ebay listing for the inner ball joints in a long time, but surely the locktab must be available from somewhere? (Item 23 in the following illustration.)


Here in Aus second hand racks seem to sell cheaply, so I'd prefer to replace the entire unit rather than drilling the nut and putting in a set screw that will place additional load on the rod.

Perhaps Robsport or S&S will be able to help you out in this regard?

Thanks Cliff and Wedgehead. Just the info I need. I'll take a closer look tomorrow and search the web.
It's such a drag when real-life commitment, like keeping the truck runnin', interferes with our true-TR7-callings...

Tom
TR7 V6... Buick; Chevy; Ford (front to back)

Probably easier to buy the complete track rod with the ball joint. Last OE ones I bought were only about £14 each (from James Paddock I think).
Just checked, JP do not list anymore, Rimmers say NLA and Robsport say call for price! Does not look too hopeful.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

I'm wondering whether just fabricating the things isn't the way to go. I'm not seeing anything for sale yet.
Do I need super precision? As long as a locking washer has strong tabs to bend over the nuts it should work... don't know exact thickness, but since the rack is out of the car, trial and error.
I have some time to fool with this.. am waiting for some Rover calipers from Ted's T S Imported in Ohio. Anyone do a brake upgrade w Ted btw?
Great and varied info as is usual here
Tom

i would say no, they don't have to be super precise. they are just locking the nut in place.



<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>
<h4><center>http://cliffstr7sprintconversion.blogspot.com/</center></h4>

Have you asked Ted if he can supply the locking tab or a complete a second hand ball joint?

It is also be worth trying to get some additional shims (item 36 in the drawing) so that you can adjust the ball joint, if needed.