Headlights - sorry!

[dursleyman]

OK, so I have to admit feeling a little smug over the years as I have read various folks stories of problems with their headlight lift motors. Mine always worked great, but suddenly I find myself in that position and I don't like it.

Drove the "new" car out of the garage today and the headlights refused to lift, they came on but would not lift. They worked fine when I parked it a couple of months ago but not today. More annoying as it has to go for an MOT test very soon.

Did the usual checks on the earthing points in each corner of the engine bay and took the connectors apart for a clean-up. The left light now comes up OK but the right side is still no-go.

I have now put it away for the night and will go through the connections again tomorrow but would appreciate some reassurance and a check list of pointers to follow if anyone has one.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[Spectatohead]

Every time I have had a problem with the headlights coming up it has been the switch. Most of those times all it has required was pulling the switch out of the dash and taking it apart and cleaning the contacts. Once, years ago, the switch burned up. That time I had to get a new switch.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[dursleyman]

Yes I have a new switch and a spare in stock so i'll try them tomorrow, but if its the switch funny that one light now rises and one doesn't?

I also tried the "flash" and just the one rises on its own.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[busheytrader]

I guess it's a case of check every connection from the main headlight switch itself to the headlight motor to the earth connections.

That includes the connection blocks under the fake top speaker grille, around the glovebox and the fuses / relays. The youngest of our cars are over 30 years old and most of the copper contacts will have corroded / contaminated surfaces.

I turn on / off the headlights every time I'm in the 7 to keep the switch contacts clean





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

[Beans]

Check relays, and clean current switch for good measure.
They can and do corrode, especially when left idle for a while [B)]




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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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[prlee]

I have one that sticks when left for a while. Quick twist of the knob on the bottom of the motor gets it moving again. Needs a spray of something really.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.

[Neil_W]

I had the same problem with a winking headlamp - check the unit in the glove box / under glove box - the pelton I think they call it - the little square bit hanging on the loom if I remember.
It was partially loose & refitted everything went back to normal if there is anything normal on a TR7.

Also made a Distributor Spanner from the dimentions when you lent me you tool - £5 all in so now have one in the tool box & ready for a profesional tune up next week.

[dursleyman]

OK, they work.

Went back today and checked all the connections and re-did the earth point and still nothing.

Then I remembered Pete's comment about tweaking the knob on the motor and as if by magic - they now work perfectly every time.

I do always give them a cycle every time I use the cars but this one has been stood for a few months and the gremlins had crept in. Maybe I'll diary it to go out and try them every week or so even when the car is laid up.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[bmcecosse]

I put the lamps UP and disconnect when going for the MOT - saves any embarrassments if they start winking......or refusing to come out to play. And yes - use them (and the hazard lights) every time I start the car. I find my lamps are voltage sensitive - if I want them to go down and stay down - the engine (ie the alternator) must not be running.

[dursleyman]

Excellent idea to disconnect before going for the MOT, I will do that next time.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[FI Spyder]

Never had any problems, don't often use them except for the Ladysmith Days parade as the little kids eyes light up when they unexpectedly see them pop up and down. Mind you I did clean all contacts before I put it on the road.




- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT