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In an effort to remove and do a POR15 repair on my cracked manifold, all but one bolt came out with no effort. With the bolt head sheared off, I was able to get the manifold off, sandblast, use fireseal 2000 and paint over with POR20. Looks great.

While all this was going on, I began to use a left hand HS drill bit to get at the remaining bolt. No problem! Got an easy out into it OK, but then...SNAP. After continued hours of wasted drilling, I am resigned to the fact I may need to get to a garage with better tools.

Since I'm 90 KM from anyplace that may be able to remove it, would putting the manifold back on with 6, bolts be OK, or would it cause too much stress thereby causing another crack? Trying to avoid a tow.

FYI, so far all 6 bolts have been 3/8" UNF. I also hsve new hardware to re-install.[:(]



1980 TR7 DHC pageant blue

90km thats 56 miles! Don't know what other forum members would think but I couldn't see a problem for a journey of that length. I would actually avoid overtightening the remaining bolts in an endeavour to compensate for the missing one as that could create more problems. I guess your'e using a fitting kit, but if not if I recall correctly some of the bolts are shorter than others. You will no doubt have checked this. Regards, supercass

I would see little problem with a short hop like that on one missing bolt. If the "easy-out" (no such thing) is broken off inside the bolt it can be tough to drill out. Years ago I bought an MGB where the PO had broken off the rear exhaust manifold bolt. To rid myself of a noisy leaky manifold I ultimately had to pull the head and take it to a machine shop where they drilled it out with a diamond tip drill (and complained about it). Hope you have better luck!
Jim

You will be fine. My exhaust manifold had a missing bolt for I don't know how long (maybe from factory?) I just realigned the gasket (it's FI) and put a new bolt in.

You'll have to make the All Triumph Drive In (it's in Penticton this year). Rotates B.C., Washington, Oregon. I was planning on going but it's the third week in August this year, the same time as Comox's Filberg show which I usually support being a chapter of the club I belong to.

I have relatives in Kelowna and was hoping to see them. We'll have to see, they were hoping I would make it out. So many shows....so little time.[}:)]



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Hi F1

As luck would have it, I'll be back in Taiwan by the 15th of August, so I'll have to miss that one.

Back to the manifold, I do have new gaskets and plan to use a little extra high temp sealant so hopefully that will do the job. Who knows maybe it will outlast the manifold cracks.

Will try to add some photos once I re- learn how.

Just noticed while poking around (putting in new battery cables), that the grounding strap attached to the right side bell housing is not attached to anything else. Tried a search and a google but can't find any pics. Before I start crawling underneath, where exactly should the other end go? I have manuals but can't locate the info.

Thank you to all for your advice. I feel much better now!

1980 TR7 DHC pageant blue

Do you have, or have access to a welder? I have had much success by weld a nut to the end of the broken stud. This serves two purposes, it gives you something to get a spanner on to turn stud out, but it also heats the stud which can help in the removal. If the stud is sticking out, that's all the better as it gives you more to weld to, but I've removed studs that are snapped off flush in this way also. Make sure stud end is as clean as possible to take a good weld. It does not matter what size nut you use, sometimes a larger nut is better as you can flow more weld in. You'll be amazed what a bit of heat can do!!

I have two grounding straps on the RH side, small one higher that goes into the wiring loom, larger one from near the clutch slave goes to the coil mounting strap on the body. These ground the engine/transmission to the wiring loom and body. There are about seven grounding wires through out the car, less on the early cars. This is on 1979 yellow TCT.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Thanks for all the info and advice.

I don't have a welder, so I went ahead and re-installed the manifold then waited 24 hours, for the gasket sealant to cure. Started no problem, only a few fumes from all the cleaning work and POR20 curing process. Now I can hear a slight exhaust leak coming from the rear. Another project for later.

As luck would have it, I now have a leaky fuel pump...fun fun fun!

1980 TR7 DHC pageant blue