tr7triumph.com

Hi,
Does anyone have any experience with getting A/C installed? Rimmer's don't know of anything and I am having trouble finding anyone in Sydney who will do the job. Sydney is in the low 30's (Celcius) and I am dying in the car.

you should speak with Hasbeen,he had one installed last year and appears very satisfied (he even on your side of the world!)

Ron.

hi,,
well my car had its air con removed when it was in the uk.....

so what do i do....
leave it at home on a hot day!! the engine cooling is a bigger worry...

its not a car to get in traffic que's

In that case Trickyx, you have a problem, probably with your tuning, a radiator blocked with gunk, your thermostat, water pump or fan. These cars do not over heat, even on the hottest day, if in good condition.

Some years back I had to fit a hotter thermostat to one because it ran too cold.

Get your self an infrared temperature gauge, [20 bucks at Super Cheap],& use it to check the radiator for cool spots, showing blockages, & to find what your temperature really is, the gauges are not all that accurate.

They can suffer from the cooling system not being properly filled. Try filling it at the thermostat for a full system.

I also found fitting an overflow return system, mine stolen from an old dead Toyota Cressida, [in one of my very poor periods] helped one 7, which had an old partially blocked radiator, keep it's cool for another couple of years.

Hasbeen

hi hasbeen and thanks for your advice..
engine cooling is a worry of mine, not that the car has over heated since being in the southern
hemisphere.
but it is something i'm aware of and do not want to cook the motor.. only once has it got hotter than i was happy with.. returning from its first inspection. an, low 40's day.( and thats touching the second mark on the temp gauge.. which as we all know is grossly inaccurate. )
if the car has forward movement above a certain speed it is not an issue but in slow or stopped traffic the temp gauge goes up!

she is running a 4.6 v8.. the tuning i dont think is a probelm as john eales did it! and i cant fault it... i have checked the radiator and cleaned it out as best you can..(have throught about an aluminium rad.. any one got any feed back on these .. before after) the water pump has done about 2500 miles.. and the fans are two porsche boxer fans fitted to the tr8 forward leaning behind the rad bracket.. with the triumph twin speed circuit as apposed to the porsche.

( infrared temperature gauge, use it to check the radiator for cool spots, showing blockages, ) that sounds like a good idea

i have looked at the cooling system on this car a lot and found things that i consider to be incorrect..
like the vent pipe from the top of the thermostat housing back to header tank being too large... which allowed the water to flow easier through the header tank than through the heater.

slight restrictor = heater works.


regards DT

Trixy, now even more of the belief that any problem is likely to be tuning, & that is the mixture at idle, & small throttle openings, at low revs.

Some time back I did an extended post on cooling the 8, with it's 4.6L, & airconditioning, but I can't find it now.

I chased it's cooling for about 6 years, keeping the thing just drivable, without air, in city traffic. A drive in the suburbs often required parking, engine off with the fans going for a while on a hot [35/40] day. Out on the open road it was never a major problem, but you never felt really on top of it.

It has a VN Commodore radiator, with a 4 core conversion, which I often thought of changing, but ultimately it proved quite OK.

During one of those strange turns my son sometimes takes, he bought & fitted a more highly worked inlet system, with a much bigger throttle body, bigger injectors, & a very high tech spark generating setup.

When the old Haltech would not let us in to tune it, he fitted the latest Haltech, & converted to computer controlled ignition, as well as injection.

The thing picked up a great deal of power, & I expected it would prove to be an even better water heater, but probably undrivable on the road. It is now difficult to get it away from a standstill, with out spinning wheels, until you've had some time to get the feel of it.

Not only does it now run so much cooler that you can drive it anywhere, in the comfort of airconditioning, but the economy is way better.

On a 2900Km run after the modifications it gave 10.1L/100Km, where 14L/100Km was hard to achieve previously. On one famous occasion, my son achieved 25L/100Km, without really trying, with the old setup.

The thing is tuned much richer at low revs, & small throttle openings, & as you now drive it on much smaller throttle openings, we have decided it was running lean in that area. Everything looked good on a dyno previously, but of course, you are using large throttle openings when tuning for power, & we never even thought to look at light loads.

The thing is now with my son, in Kiama. You should get together & swap notes. He has now fitter a much larger exhaust system from the extractors back, so I hope all the above is still true.

Hasbeen

hi,
shes on a 360 offenhauser inlet .. edelbrock 500. with stage 3 heads..
if any thing i would say she was rich at low rev's... as if you just move her in and out the garage a few times she starts dropping cylinders till you have cleaned the plugs or used it again..
being lean at low revs when on the road would make sence as she dont like being behind slow cars.. ( the temp rise's slowly)
guess i will have to plug chop it?
dt

Hi,
Back to air conditioning for the TR7 after a break. Vintage Air in the US look like they provide some good components. I spoke to Sanden about their recommended compressor and they told me me to find the specs of the original. Does anyone happen to know this, or could anyone provide the Model and Series numbers of the original compressor?
Cheers

Mike

As from that other forum,

From the 1977 manual,

York, model 210

10.3 cu in/rev

6" pulley

Hasbeen