tr7triumph.com

I have seen how to fit the hood snap fittings to the material. How do the durable dots fix to the deck panel?



Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve
1982 TR7 Sprint DHC

Studs part number 713511 & pop rivets part number 713531, 4 each side on the curved trim strip. Rimmers has them, no doubt the other our specialists do too.

Note that the originals were plastic poppers & studs, replacements are usually metal. I don't think you can mix the two types, slightly different sizes? Someone else might be able to clarify that point.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

thanks - I have a few durable dot fastening on my TR7 Sprint DHC that I can not get to let go of the deck. Wanted to know how to fix new ones in for when I get around to drilling out the old ones. Wouldn't be for a while as the car currently has a Lenham hardtop.

Maybe a mixture of old and new fitting has resulted on the fastening being jammed on?

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve
1982 TR7 Sprint DHC

The male stud is riveted to the body with the female black plastic cap sandwiched between the hood material then using the pinch kit the inner pin is flattened.

If memory serves me right the new rivits are a bit larger in dia - will depend on the new stud hole dia.

Use a 4 x 4 piece of fence post placed near the body to hammer the pin flat to sandwich the cap to the hood.
The black plastic outer cap is placed on the curved mandrel - hood - backing cap - use the punch to flatten the pin - all secured.

The black plastic studs & caps are bought as a set & readily available.

If you don't like the way the normal rivets fit in the body .
A "friend" from a couple of TR6 sites uses this tool .
Never have loose rivets again
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/NutRivets.htm

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Wrong info - new studs are metal with black plastic so are more durable.
From shed see below old male & new metal male which are a different profile.

That looks pretty solid Don, but there might be a problem in that there isn't much room as the black trim strip backside which prevents too much sticking out the backside (mentioned in the article). There isn't much metal (top side of trim and body metal) holding coupled with usually worn holes usually necessitates a washer on the backside of body metal to provide some backing. I glue them on with contact cement so when the rivet is pulled there is some self centering play. Just barely enough room for that. I would like to see how the tool will work with a TR7 and check a TR6 next time I can to see how it might work.

Haven't had to do a hood popper yet. (Still using original top.)





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