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Lenham Hardtop

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 16:59
by vitessesteve
How easy is it to get or fix missing rear fastening?

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 17:08
by Maxwell
Hi Steve. The rear fitting is no more than an anlge cleat, and easy enough to fabricate. Hardest part will be attaching it securely to the fibreglass. A hook-bolt locates it to a second cleat fitted to the hood-frame bolt.

Maxwell [:D]

3.5 TR7 V8 Drop Head \ Oliver
0.7 Smart Roadster \ Oscar

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 18:16
by vitessesteve
thanks Maxwell for prompt reply. Just won it on eBay see 271111232727.

Have you got any images and or details of the size of the rear fittings.

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 18:57
by Maxwell
Hi Steve -

It looks from the picture on eBay that the near-side retaining cleat is still there. IIRC the hook bolt is about four\six inches long, around M8. I used a plate washer under a wing-nut to secure.

It looks a nice roof for what you paid - they are fairly rare now. My Lenham [signed by Harris Mann] has long-gone!

Maxwell Editor \ TR-Driver TRDC [:D]


3.5 TR7 V8 Drop Head \ Oliver
0.7 Smart Roadster \ Oscar

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 22:29
by nervousnewowner
ah memories. . . . mine was my cars portable garage,,,,[:D] i actually held mine on with tie wraps, zip ties or whatever you like to call them, lot quicker too...lol

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Dave...

the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

Posted: 06 Dec 2012 23:37
by supercass
A heated rear screen was fitted to many of these hardtops. I believe it was a standard FHC rear screen. A second hand one could work out cheaper than replacing the perspex. supercass

Posted: 08 Dec 2012 15:38
by dursleyman
[quote]<i>Originally posted by nervousnewowner</i>

ah memories. . . . mine was my cars portable garage,,,,[:D] i actually held mine on with tie wraps, zip ties or whatever you like to call them, lot quicker too...lol

I like that idea, I just bought one and was thinking the "J" bolts are a bit of a pain.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK
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Posted: 23 Dec 2012 15:20
by vitessesteve
Dave thanks for excellent tip about using cable ties to hold the hardtop down.

Fitted the Lenham hardtop. Will have to sort out a rear fastening to keep the back down but am sure the hardtop will be warmer and drier than the soft top. Will use a couple of cable ties for now. Several of the studs and poppers on the soft top, along the deck, would not let go, another job to investigate. Tried using a trim removal tool to lift the fastenings open put they would not budge. Wonder how I can do to get them to let go.

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve

Posted: 23 Dec 2012 17:51
by HowardB
Steve,

I wouldn't worry about getting cold - TR7's are warm car and with the heater on you will drive around quite happily with the top down in the winter on dry days With the hood up its sometimes a problem keeping cool, however the hard top should be better at keeping any rain out and is 100% more secure so its worth having.

Enjoy driving it and hope to see you on the RBBR in a couple of years when its all sorted out.

Cheers

Howard

Posted: 23 Dec 2012 18:02
by FI Spyder
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by vitessesteve</i>

Several of the studs and poppers on the soft top, along the deck, would not let go, another job to investigate. Tried using a trim removal tool to lift the fastenings open put they would not budge. Wonder how I can do to get them to let go.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I find it helps to put a little clear synthetic grease (Vaseline would probably work too) on hard to remove poppers. That's when they're open. If they are still done up I would squirt a little silicone lub in there, let it sit for a bit then try popping them off. Be careful though you don't want to pull it out of the trim strip.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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Posted: 23 Dec 2012 20:03
by nervousnewowner
yeah def standard rear screen in them, and usually the fittings to plug the rear heater in.

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Dave...

the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

Posted: 26 Dec 2012 10:05
by vitessesteve
Time to start the hardtop refurb.

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Needs to replace the crazed perspex rear window with the heated glass one I have. Not sure how to hide the heater element wiring at this stage.

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The hardtop has these fastening on each side which I will tie down to the drop top iron work with cable ties.

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The roof has an interior light fitted centrally above the rear window. I just need to link the wiring from the roof into the existing circuit.

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve
1982 TR7 Sprint DHC

Posted: 14 Jan 2013 11:06
by Philip
Mine fits like this -

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Still standing !
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Posted: 14 Jan 2013 11:10
by Philip
Hardtop fitted with rear opening windows.

My heated screen wires run to the passenger windscreen pillar where there is a connector to link to the switch.

Ive never actually tried to use it !

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Still standing !
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Posted: 19 Jan 2013 15:07
by vitessesteve
[quote]<i>Originally posted by Philip</i>

Mine fits like this -

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[quote]

So how long are those j-bolts? They look like the sort of bolts used to make some roofs.

Mine does not have the opening side windows - it has glued in perspex.

Steve Weblin - AKA vitessesteve
1982 TR7 Sprint DHC