tr7triumph.com

Ok guys time to learn a new trade or operation so what is the best method to replace track rod end as the ball joint dust cover is split and Mr MOT man doesn't like it [B)]

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Provided the joint has not seized and can be reused;
Buy a new dust cover.
Remove the nut from the bottom of the joint.
Separate the joint from the steering arm.
Remove the old & install the new dust cover.
Reinstall the joint into the steering arm and tighten the nut.
Wash your hands and say, "What a good boy I am!"

Mildred Hargis

Quite a painless operation as long as you don't hit your hand with the large hammer.

1. Put front on axle stands so both wheels are off the ground.
2. Unscrew the lock nut on the steering rack rod - there is a flat on the end if you push back the Steering rack gatter or use mole grips to hold shaft.Might need small blow lamp on nut if tight to heat it up.
3. Measure distance of thread showing so you can screw it back on at same distance later on.
4. Undo nut on top of track rod end - & thump up / down on track rod end as I assume you will replace the complete unit.
5. It will pop out then unscrew from steering rack.
6. Fit new one on Steering rack to same distance - pop ball joint back in the cleaned hole & tighten to correct torque.
7. Tighten lock nut on steering rack & put new cable tie of steering gatter.
8. Do both sides.

Original ball joints had split pins - new ones have nylock nuts.

Might only be 60 quid for MOT garage to fit including parts so cheaper than a re test if over 24 hrs.

OR See Works Manual at www.triumph-cars.co.uk/ for pictures in section PDF's to download it.Pages 248 for track rod ends


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRACK-ROD-END ... 3cca711b13

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Easy really with the proper tool [;)]



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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Not mentioned but if you're going to relace the tie rod end while replacing the gaiters, count the number of turns it takes to remove, write it down (so you don't forget) and put new one on with same number of turns to get you close to the right spot. I use a pickling fork to remove tie rod but a little hard on rubber if you're going to reuse it.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Easy unless the track rod has seized onto th steering arm, would not shift had to get arage to do it, not expensive though

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.

There is an easy way to remove the ball joint stud from the strut. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and break the nut loose. Get a socket from your tool box that will slide over the stud and sit on top of the castle nut and will just touch the bottom of the strut housing. Now loosen the nut, which will push the socket up against the strut housing until where is enough pressure on the nut that it then pushes the stud out the bottom of the strut.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Are we discussing the track rod end or the lower ball joint on the bottom of the strut?

I don't think the track rod end dust cover is available separately but I've never needed to buy one on its own. I've had to replace the lower ball joint dust covers a few times in the last few years. They don't last more than a couple of years before the rubber splits. Prior to that they lasted over 25 years.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.