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On the odd occasion when it is 30 deg C in the UK, the always on heat into the cockpit function is a bit much. Is there an simple in-line valve I could fit in the inlet manifold to bulkhead hose?

Jeffremj you would have to find a 2 way valve, as you can not just shut the water flow completely, with out endangering your cylinder head.

The reason for the constant flow is that the heater is part of the main coolant circulation system. It is the only way hot water from the back of the engine gets transferred to the pump & radiator.

With no flow through there the rear of the head would overheat.

I had the same problem in spades in the Oz heat. My only advantage is I don't need a heater at all. I have therefore bypassed the ventilation system completely, taking the water straight from the back of the head to the pump. Previously I found it took a few minutes driving after parking for the fresh air to cool to ambient, which was hot enough as it was.

Hasbeen

D'oh. Of course - thanks for the info.

Anyone have link for a good 2 way valve. I looked a while back, but could not find anything I thought would work.

Rob

How does standard setup vary from the A/C heater that has an on/off valve to keep the heat out of the heater so it doesn't counter act the cooling efficiency of the A/C cooling?



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Hi,

There was a mod on Rover 800's,the early non A/C cars suffered from the same problem, this involed fitting a 4 way valve into the heater hoses. When cold air was selected, the heated lever opened a vacumm valve this in turn pulled a valve in the 4 way valve in the heater hoses and so doing allow the coolant to by pass the matrix

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-800-Hea ... 0736208758

You would need the above, if this one is not seized as they tended to do! A suitable vacumm switch on the heater linkage, the original was a plunger that the lever pushed open. Have to look out the original Technical Bulletin for this mod one day.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

it wouldnt hurt to install a valve made in this century.

there are lots of electronic valves cheap as chips.

for example a ford fiesta one. Simple switch could actuate it, or if you wanted( and had time ) you could installa a magnetic switch to the heated adjustment slider, so the valve is closed when the slider is on full cold

I was thinking I want something simple like this (this is wrong size and fittings):
http://www.contractcleanersupplies.com/products/pressure-washer-parts-valves/flow-control-metering-valves/VA-306331-85.html

I just want valve to open manually in the winter when I want I might want some heat, and close it down in the summer when adding heat any heat to the interior is crazy. Adding an automatic solenoid to the valve is a big overkill in my case.

Rob



Rob

jeffremj, do you have the heater air intake cowling and seals fitted? Without it all the engine heat enters through the heater. I do not have much of a problem with it fitted and the heater off.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by saabfast</i>

jeffremj, do you have the heater air intake cowling and seals fitted? Without it all the engine heat enters through the heater. I do not have much of a problem with it fitted and the heater off.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I had closed everything 'off', but for a while the footwell felt warmer than usual. I guess the simplest thing for me is to fit that footwell vent I imported 15 years ago! [8D]