tr7triumph.com

[img][IMG]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd61/chunktr8/IMG_1246.jpg[/img][/img]

Very busy at the Mopar Nationals at Santa Pod last weekend.
And the usual oil downs, wall contact and lunch breaks.
So having cued for 3 hours, had just one run.
But it was good. 12.57 @ 109mph, taking 3 tenths off my PB of 12.89.
Not bad for a TR7. Well chuffed. [:)]

Cheers

Phil

P.S. I left the bonnet open only in the pits. [;)]

1979 TR7V8 FHC.
DJE 4.6 Block and Heads.
22 years of tinkering and tuning......So far!
Now available in red.

Hi Phil,

Well done mate [8D]

Wondered if you were up there, kept watching live streaming on 'Euro Dragster.Com' to see if i could catch you on screen. To top it all you managed to get home with no damage to the car this year too [:p]

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Chunk,
you couldnt give me your wheel and tyre details could you?
Love the look of those, im guessing you have no Modifications to the arches?
Steve


1983 Del lines TR8. FIAT 131 Abarth Replica. 1984 XR3i, 1996 BMW Z3, 1960 Mini Hustler. 2009 Sport Ka, 2012 Ford Fusion.

The wheels are Miniltes, 7" x 15" front with ET Zero.
The rears are 8" x 15" with ET03.
Front tyres are 205/50 x 15 and rears are 225/50 x 15.
The rear arches are an inch wider than standard.

1979 TR7V8 FHC.
DJE 4.6 Block and Heads.
22 years of tinkering and tuning......So far!
Now available in red.

I'm thinking of changing from 13" x 7" and 13" x 8" to same width in 15".

I get a lot of "tramlining" with the 13's. It's fine on the track but a pain on the crappy roads around here and I'm wondering if changing to 15's will improve things. (I'm pretty happy with the brakes already under the 13's)

I'm also wondering why ET03 at the back, is this just to give a little more overall width to the rear track?

Any help would be appreciated before I raid the piggy bank!

Steve

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<b><font color="blue">http://www.croyde-bay.com/triumph.htm</font id="blue"></b>

<b><font color="blue">croydebay@aol.com</b></font id="blue">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by croydebay</i>

... I get a lot of "tramlining" ... and I'm wondering if changing to 15's will improve things <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
From own experience bigger wheels will pronounce tram lining.
Also changing (especially enlarging) the track or fitting stiffer tyres (lower tyre) will pronounce this.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

That is a true fact. My car jumps around like a bead of water on a hot skillet when there are ruts in the road surface. When the road is smooth it drives fine. I have 205 50 15s on the front and 225 50 15s on the back.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

Hi,

Taken at TR Reg National this year, proof
that Phil's car is quick going round corners at the auto solo [8D]





Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Thanks John. Great photos on the events page.
My arms are aching a little after 4 hairpin turns on each run.
But Tony Pond never had power steering, so i'll manage. [;)]

Back to the wheels (Steve), the rear wheels are machined inside nearly as much as possible to give a narrow track and to get them under the arches, which are 1 inch wider each side.
The 15 inch wheel offers a much wider choice of tyres and looks good.
You will still get some tram linning with a 205 x 15 tyre, but this can be reduced by doing the tracking on a 4 Wheel alignment machine and setting the toe in to 16 minutes as per book to keep it safe. Any toe out would be bad and make it pull to one side, even on a flat rode.

1979 TR7V8 FHC.
DJE 4.6 Block and Heads.
22 years of tinkering and tuning......So far!
Now available in red.

Thanks for the tip(s).

I guess I need to think carefully about my next move. I would like to fill those arches, 13" wheels also leaves a lot of metalwork on show if you want to clear speed bumps etc.

Steve



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<b><font color="blue">http://www.croyde-bay.com/triumph.htm</font id="blue"></b>

<b><font color="blue">croydebay@aol.com</b></font id="blue">

I was fairly confident until Chunk turned up in the beast!!! really had to try hard to beat it but I did manage a class win in the end!

One of my more entertaining (if not exactly accurate) runs! On this link: [:D]

http://youtu.be/6zqqCUoTSGI


<b>Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

Wow, having to knock a cone at the last to make an enclosed parking spot end is really tough to do. Most slalom courses just make you come to a stop.[:p][:D]



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Good effort Wayne. You didn't need to worry, i got the course wrong 3 times out of 4 goes. Must get a navigator next time. [:)] Good fun.

1979 TR7V8 FHC.
DJE 4.6 Block and Heads.
22 years of tinkering and tuning......So far!
Now available in red.