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Has anyone recovered the center armrest lid (console lid, etc)? I've got a spare one that someone had drilled through to mount a cup holder on. Took it apart and everything is there and in really good shape. I scraped all the foam off the top piece because I would not want to reuse that crusty old stuff. Just wondering if anyone might have some tips or tricks for what to do next.

Thanks

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://rgstr7spider.tumblr.com/

Not sure,but I saw a very cool trick where someone had taken a spare lid that they had,cut the first 4-5 inches (but left the clasp in place and vinyl on top),and put a hinge underneath to connect the piece they cut with the rest of the lid. Result:you could unclasp the front section,swing it back,and voila!-instand cupholder (the can was held in by the front part of the console),but if you didn't need to use it for a can,you could swing the piece back down into place and have it latch in like normal and just use it as a regular armrest. Sweet![:D]

Yes, Randy, it is a very easy project. However, being such a high visibility piece, getting some assistance from an upholsterer is a valid idea. You are correct in removing the original foam padding. I suggest it be replaced with ordinary carpet padding. I used 1/2" rebond padding left over from a remodeling project. The vinyl covering can be ordered from the usual suspects or even your local automotive upholsterer may have some.

I chose to have the upholsterer install the vinyl cover on the lid as they tend to have better adhesives and installation tricks up their sleeves that I do not. Then, I re-riveted the padded lid back on the console framing. It was well worth the $20.00 for their skilled labor. Now, after 20 years, it is still securely in place.

Mildred Hargis

There's supposed to be padding under there? Mine must have either petrified, or vaporized!

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

My center armrest lid is OK, but it could use some cleaning. My issue that the plastic box broke just below the hing in the back.

Any hints on how to fix that? A metal brace and superglue perhaps?

Michael

1980 TR7
1999 4Runner

Be inventive. Be clever. Make us proud and provide photos along with your self congratulating, award winning article explaining it all. I know I can hardly wait.

Mildred Hargis

Well I've got two lids to play with. One is just the vinyl covered piece with the foam still intact. The other is the one I just cleaned off. I may try just putting some fresh vinyl over the intact one, just to see what it will do. The other I am planning on complete overhaul. It's odd, but it looks like the vinyl is actually moulded over the foam, almost like its actually plastic that was applied over it. I'll post pics as I go. I'm thinking of something a little denser than carpet padding, but not so dense that it will leave intentions from elbows. It's those corners that get me. I just don't think I can get it exactly like original, but will do my best.

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://rgstr7spider.tumblr.com/

Okay so I've been noodling this over tonight and came up with an idea. My goal here is to preserve the shape of the original lid, angles etc. First let's clarify the original setup. There is the metal plate on the bottom that contains the hing at the back and the latch piece at the front. That attaches to the top piece that consists of another metal plate covered with foam, then covered with that vinyl/plastic stuff. Because I really don't think it will be possible to match the angles of the original using foam, why not do away with that whole assembly altogether. Why not recreate the shape of the lid using MDF (medium density fiberboard) and cover that the same way you'd cover furniture...foam, vinyl, staples, etc. Then you could just get some small black screws and screw the bottom metal plate to the new lid. I'm wondering though how the MDF will hold up over time. I don't plan on moisture being a problem, but there is the direct sun and heat to consider. Is there another type of wood or even other material that might be better?

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://rgstr7spider.tumblr.com/

I have recovered the armrest and repaired the plastic box where it broke under the hinge; both RgsSpider and Bottombrakets problems. Because the plastic was broken I was able to handle the lid easier; it was completely unattached.

To recover the box, I cut the vinyl from the back panel of a ruined blue check seat cover. That matched the original armrest cover exactly. I drilled out the rivets holding the upholstered panel from the metal plate. My armrest just had a coupe small cuts, so I didn't strip anything off. I just put a new layer over it using the seat vinyl. Tucked the edges under tight and stapled them in place with short upholstery staples, then riveted the whole thing back onto the metal backing plate. It used to be really hard, so the extra layer makes it feel like it has a little padding.

To fix the hinge break, I took the box out, then took a piece of similar plastic and cut it shape to cover the entire back face of the box. I glued the broken pieces together and glued the new plastic piece over the whole thing. I put another plastic brace behind the broken part too, that sandwiched the break. The back piece is on the outside of the box, and presses up against the back trim panel of the car interior, so you don't see it.




[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

Do you see? Do you just see how wonderfully amazing our creative minds can be? This is great!

Mildred Hargis

Thanks whitenviro, I think I will try that with one of my spares. I'd like to see how it turns out. But I'm also liking the idea of rebuilding the top so I'm going to pursue that too. Going to look at wood materials today. Also had the thought of using some Trex decking, but I'm not sure how well that stands up to being ripped and shaped.

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://rgstr7spider.tumblr.com/

Randy- The Trex is kind of heavy

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel Now 4 Sale
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by whitenviro</i>

...

To fix the hinge break, I took the box out, then took a piece of similar plastic and cut it shape to cover the entire back face of the box. I glued the broken pieces together and glued the new plastic piece over the whole thing. I put another plastic brace behind the broken part too, that sandwiched the break. The back piece is on the outside of the box, and presses up against the back trim panel of the car interior, so you don't see it.




[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">This was what I was think of doing except maybe using metal plates for the braces to make it stronger. The hing broke when I opened and torqued it the side at the same time.

Michael

1980 TR7
1999 4Runner

OK so my first attempt was a bit of a bust, we'll call it a test run! First problem is I used 3/4" wood. It was some really nice scraps from a packing crate. It's just too thick, I'm pretty sure it would keep the lid from laying back against the firewall. It looks pretty good though, and is comfy! However, I guess my math was off a little bit, all those angles! You can see it's a wee bit short. So back to the drawing board. I found a piece of hardwood flooring that should be perfect, it's 1/2" and nice and sturdy. I really struggled with the corners when it came to applying the vinyl so I've got some more YouTube to watch. I'm comfortable that my formula is right though. I used headliner spray adhesive to apply the foam to the wood and just stapled the vinyl in place. Not gluing the vinyl made it easier to adjust during fitting.






Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://rgstr7spider.tumblr.com/

Looks better than the original which is a little thin for a comfortable arm rest.


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