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Hi all,
I am determined to get my 7 in the air and sort out the rear suspension, I have all the trailing arms and new bushes fitted to them so I just have to get my backside into gear and make the most of the long days to swap them over.
Question is,
Where do I put the axle stands at the back?
Where do I jack it up from to insert the axles stands?
Any advice/gems on how to swap the trailing arms and radius arms without losing location of the rear axle?
Thanks, Clayps.

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

Hi,
I completed the same job on the rear suspension as you are planning plus changing the shock absorbers too.
1.
I jacked the rear end up by placing a good trolley jack under the rear differential housing where there is a flat area ( used a piece of hardwood to save any damage )
2.
With the car up in the air placed a pair of axle stands on the chassis members at the rear - ie behind the bumper & before the rear wheels on each side. If axle stands are too small I used a fence post cut in pieces to raise the axle stand up.
The car was rock solid when I tested it.
3.
Removed the road wheels.
4.
I bought a set of old trailing arms & bars - overhauled them & fitted them so save time ( then sold the old ones ).
Fit one side at a time with new bolts also.Use the trolley jack to raise / lower the axle via the diff casing again.This helped loosen the trailing arms & refit them.
5.
If the shocks are left on that will help keep the axle staight as they will hang on their stops so axle won't go anywhere.

Good luck

Just done this job too. I also jacked it up on the diff but put the stands under the floor just forward of the rear arches. There are pins there to locate scissor jacks.

When you reassemble check the fit of the bolts on the bush sleeves. I found mine were a tad loose on aftermarket poly bushes so I had the sleeves reemed to 12mm & used 12mm bolts. It has eliminated all the play from the trailing arms.



The map: http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548

Thanks gents, golden nuggets indeed, can't get that from a Haynes!
Clayps.

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

I did the same as Peter, placing my axle stands beside the pins.

Whilst the axle is out of the way, a good look round for rust with a torch might be worth it. It's better with the tank out of the way but that's something else altogether......

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>

... There are pins there to locate scissor jacks ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I use small wooden blocks (with a hole) over the pins and axle stands ...



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Thanks for the picture, that sorts the jacking points. I intend to get the underseal brush out as well, any suggestions for easily obtained products?
Cheers Clayps

What's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster?