tr7triumph.com

I have just started building a new TR7 softop shell I have had sitting around for the last 30 years into a car.

Have fitted a 4.6 injected engine into the shell.

I have a TR8 twin hole tank and a TR7 single hole tank that I can use.

The TR8 tank has one hole for Fuel outlet and inlet and one hole for the fuel level sender, whereas the TR7 one just has an outlet including the fuel level sender.

The fuel level senders on both tanks do not seem very reliable when tested with a meter.

The TKC3415 TR8 sender unit does not seem to be available anymore, any suggestions as to which way to go.

I think the TR8 tank would be best, but not sure how to proceed.

Thanks

Hugh

For an injected car the twin hole tank is correct BUT is it a tank from an injected TR8 or a carb model? The injected tank will have the swirl pot inside, visible though the hole, looking a bit like a soup bowl. A carb tank will not have the swirl pot in it.

If you have an injection tank you will also need TKC6552 fuel outlet & return as well as TKC3415 fuel sender. TKC3415 can be got, although Rimmers show them out of stock. If you hunt around you can find one - I did recently! TKC6552 is NLA.

So yes the twin hole tank would be best to use if you have the correct associated parts. Incidentally the twin hole tank was also used on the EFI model TR7 with the same fuel pick up & sender fittings.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

The carbed TR8 tank has two holes too, just no swirl pot. I got a new sender for mine two years ago when I redid the tank. I cant remember where I got it but I think it was Rimmers but it might have been VB. The old sender didn't work at all. The new one doesn't read all the way empty when it is empty or all the way full when it is full. I haven't had time to figure out why. For now, I'm just happy that it works, more or less.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

Hi Hugh,

[:)] WELCOME TO THE BEST TR7 / 8 FORUM IN THE WORLD EVER [8D]


Been watching your build thread on Piston Heads with intrest, you will find less 'haters' over here [:)]

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Post the link so we can all have a look.

1975 TR7
1977 TR7 Sprint

Hugh, you clearly have a long history with the TR7, sounds like your new project is going to be a really interesting build & an awesome car when finished.

Interesting to read of your problems with the Maniflow exhausts - wasn't the guy at Maniflow something to do with Downton Engineering before he set up Maniflow? Apart from both being in the Salisbury area was there any connection between Downton & Janspeed back in the day?

John (& anyone else who is interested!):

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... +TR7&mid=0

Sorry, don't know how to edit these links but it should work [:)]

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hugh</i>


The fuel level senders on both tanks do not seem very reliable when tested with a meter.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

When I sealed my FI tank I scrubbed my fuel sender with metal ready to get rid of ant rust outside before I put it back in. The potentiometer wasn't very consistent through out it's travel. I put it back in anyways as it worked fine before. Once it got soaked in gasoline it worked fine and has since (two years).

When using rust removal techniques you have to be careful. When cleaning up the dash light rheostat, I had put it in a molasses bath (with strips off rust) it also stripped off the resistance coating on the windings with the result that regardless of the knob position it reads zero ohms (lights on full bright).



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Hugh,
looking at the pictures of your engine in the engine bay:
Looks like you've secured another one of those few alternator/compressor brackets that WILL allow you to close the bonnet!
But you will still have to shave some material off of the top of the alternator if you don't want the bonnet paint to suffer from alternator heat...

Odd,

Thanks for the tip, I have some heat reflective tape that might work.

My engine is 1¾â€￾ back from the standard position, so might have a bit more clearance.

FI Spyder

I pulled it apart yesterday and increased to spring pressure, but still not consistent, might give your idea a try though.


TR Tony

Not spoken to Maniflow before, although I was aware of the company. The manifold is well made which is why I chose him, but he was the most expensive. Such a pity he is not a man of his word.

john 215

Thanks for the welcome, there were one or two narrow minded individuals on PH, I don’t see the point in behaving like that.

Spectatohead

My two hole tank has a swirlpot for the fuel pick up, it’s much larger than the TR7 pickup, so should work OK.

TR Tony

I have the outlet TKC6552, it looks the same as in this picture.




I Galvanised the tank to keep it from degrading.

Cheers

Hugh