tr7triumph.com

Has anybody come up with a solution to this Problem????
Glue did not hold
tried several brands ,types, Nada / Niente de piu.
Every time you press the button pop goes the weezel.
right were the clip goes. could not be a little lower,
maybe a little higher ,

NNNNaaaaaaaa!!!!

it had to be right at the center of the (*&698789747^%49&*^55689867769v 78..ng an ting.







WIll I ever finish Started on 07 2008

Dearest Zeke, please step & fetch from the junkyard the earlier TR7 trunk latch that is made of metal. If the key doesn't come with it, have a locksmith make one or switch out your lock cylinders to keep the same key.

Mildred Hargis

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

... fetch from the junkyard the earlier TR7 trunk latch ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sadly the boot lid with the later push button is different from the earlier ones.
So that won't work unless you swap the whole lot.


<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

What about epoxy putty?

By itself, it's not going to work. any pressure it's not going to hold. what we did in the office equipment repair business is reinforce with steel pins. If the crack is close fitting you can use this method. bend some pins (not sewing needles but metal that can be bent. Bend the pin (for lack of a better term into a C shape with the top and bottom of the C just a short crook. Sharpen the ends on a file. Make maybe five. Clamp the broken piece together so it is still accessible. heat the pin so it is red hot )or there about). Press pin into part (holding with hemostats, tweezers etc.) with one hook on either side of the break. The hot metal will melt into the plastic so it's not raised (too much). When all five are placed, apply crazy glue in the crack. Leave over night. Apply epoxy over crack and pins. Leave for 24 hours. It should now hold if it's ever going to. You don't have much surface to work with on the one piece and some manual dexterity will be required. Not an easy piece to work with. Or you may have to find a wrecked '82.[:(]

As you previously used glue, crazy glue probably won't work. Try roughing up the surface, picking off as much glue as you can and use slow setting (not 5 minute) epoxy.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

what about ABS cement?

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

Take it to a machinist and have him reproduce the barrel in aluminum! [:D]

Johnny

That made me think of this. How about getting it made on a 3D printer. No idea of the cost but it would be worth it to check it out. The resultant part would be as strong or stronger than original I would think.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

I read that Jay Leno has one of those 3D gizmos in his shop... I like Johnny's idea of taking it to a machinist.

Ken Morton
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

I've grown to hate plastic parts used on critical locations. This is just another example in addition to various pieces I have to fight with on my nieces 1998 BMW 318i. What makes it all the worse is after 30 years, the part is no longer available and we have to come up with an alternative creation.

Mildred Hargis

For those who like fiddling there is a less expensive way of recreating a plastic part than a 3D printer.

If you can put the thing back together as it was, you can then mold one, or a few, in a glass filled epoxy or polyester casting resin.

Dow Corning were the original manufacturers of RTV Silicone mould making resins. Such a mould can make a few complicated part, or a few dozen simple parts.

You simply pour the silicone around the part to be duplicated, in a box to support the mold. Once hardened you pour the material into the mould, allow to cure, then turn the mould inside out to extract the part.

The more complicated the part the less times the mould can be used. & with some parts, the mould may have to be destroyed to extract the part.

I got into trouble in the 60s, when promoting the technique. I had moulded some coins, among other stuff, to demonstrate how accurately the minor details were reproduced. Cast in acrylic, & painted the correct colour, they were so good that I was warned by law enforcement that I could be charged with counterfeiting, & I was Best advised to use some other object for my samples.

Glass reinforced polyester, fiberglass, is pretty tough stuff, although it needs a fair percentage of glass to gain it's impact resistance, & the higher the glass percentage, the harder it is to get accurate mouldings of small details.

Hasbeen

You could spend less than $20 and get a used one from Robsport or another UK supplier as they have more late models cars than the US seemed to received. Or more likely they rotted away faster and the plastic didn't, so they are more willing to sell you one. Then clean the parts well and keep it lubricated and you shouldn't have any problems. That would probably save you $300 to $400 a machinist would charge you. Good luck with your project.

TR8