tr7triumph.com

just about to service my 5 speed 7,
i guess 20/50 or 15/40 for the engine
ep 90 for the axle.
i have heard some horror stories about the 5 speed boxes,
what oil should i use?
regards

20W50 for the engine
EP90 for the Diff
ATF (or equivalent) for the gearbox


"Do or Do not, there is no try" - Yoda

1981 Purple Grinnal 2.0L
1980 TR7 Persian Aqua Drophead.
1977 TR7 FHC Tahiti Blue

dave, were you up at stoneleigh today? could of sworn you walked past me in the autojumble but wasn't sure enough to say hello.....


Dave...

the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

Dave

yes I was indeed there, but by 1 o'clock I was cold & wet so I went home.

You should have shouted at me, everyone else does[:D]

"Do or Do not, there is no try" - Yoda

1981 Purple Grinnal 2.0L
1980 TR7 Persian Aqua Drophead.
1977 TR7 FHC Tahiti Blue

Hi,

I too thought i saw you mate, sorry for not saying hello.

I use MTF 94 in my 5 speeder

Cheers John.


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by drbeard</i>


i have heard some horror stories about the 5 speed boxes,
what oil should i use?
regards<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
There is a lot of opinion about what is best for the gearbox but I have heard from a well informed source that the late Ken Tomlinson, guru of the LT77 gearbox, would only use Motul Gear 300. I believe it is also suitable for the diff.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

Tony, Ken told me many times that there was no problem with noisy gearboxes in a competition car.

www.triumphtrs.co.uk
THE Coca Cola car
The C+C Conversions rally car
TR7 Sprint
TR7V8 rally car

I know the smart money is on the new oils, but I've been using AFT in my 7's box for 10 years, & over 60,000 Km with complete satisfaction, for what it's worth.

Hasbeen

I use the generally recommended Pennzoil Synchromesh. I tried using the Pennzoil Synchromesh Synthetic but it was too slippery for the syncros and was notchy in 2nd when cold (although not as bad as the original stuff that was in there). I know some use synthetic brands but the Penn Syncro works for me so am sticking with it.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

I was lucky enough to find some 20/50 down the local k-mart, but I was shocked as it does seem harder and harder to get these days. I even had a quick look down supercheap auto and they did not appear to have any, but in saying that I did not look too hard.

So with 20/50 getting a bit harder to get, can we use 15/40 as mentioned above?

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TR Tony</i>

... the late Ken Tomlinson, guru of the LT77 gearbox, would only use Motul Gear 300 ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
MOTUL Gear 300 is a 100% Synthetic gear oil with a viscosity of 75W90.
(and complying to API standards GL4 and GL5, and Ford MIL-L-2105D)
Compared to the gear oil I have been using it is slightly more viscous.

I’ll stick to the Castrol oil I have been using in my gearboxes for several years,
but I think most people on here would do well to stick to the ATF oil as recommended by Triumph.

As for the engine stick to 20W-50, unless you are using the car at temperatures well below freezing.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Phil most of us in Oz are using Penrite oil.

I use HPR 40, a 20 W 70 semi synthetic in my 165,000Km 7. I also add a bottle of STP at each change. I would use HPR 30 in a rebuilt or very low mileage 2.0L engine. This engine was not in great condition 10 years ago, having sat disused for over 3 years, but has got quite good with plenty of use, & very regular oil changes.

I use HPR 10 diesel in the highly tuned 4.6L 8. This is a fully synthetic 10 W 50. Rover V8s are very dirty engines, & our local Triumph guru has found the diesel oil, with it's much higher level of detergents very good in Rover V8s doing a lot of hard work in Range Rovers.

It does get dirty more quickly, so is probably helping get the muck out.

You will find their stuff at most outlets, including Super cheep.

Hasbeen

I love these oil topic fights, don't you?

Back when Christ was a P.F.C., I used straight 30wt in my fresh off the showroom floor TR7 and changed the oil every 5000 miles. These days I use 10-30wt and still change it every 5000 miles.

You see, engines like warm thin oil, hot coolant, and cold air once the engine is at operating temperatures. A heavier weight oil imposes a needless drag on the rotating mass. The proof in the pudding came when examination of the main and rod bearing shells revealed normal wear thru the soft metal layers of the shell after 27 years and 114,500 miles of use. All, in the hot climate of the southern U.S.

Yes, I can read. Yes, I read the official factory Owners Manual specifications. I also read the specifications for the gearbox oil. I also noted how the factory did not see fit to recommend periodic changing of the swarf soaked oil in the LT77 gearbox that is drawn in to chew up the oil pump gears and forward thru the main shaft to damage the gears themselves. I also note how the factory scrambled around trying to find a suitable lubricant to ease the second gear grinding when the system was cold and even to a lesser degree when hot. The gear oil from Pennzoil solved the issue as best as it can be solved.

My continued experimentation AND the idea exchange here on the forum has led me to my current level of satisfaction with the car. It is a cold blooded beast. It slightly grinds second when cold. It wants the choke for awhile when the temperature is below 65 degrees F. The body interior creaks and squeaks until the cabin is warm. And the various drive-line components clunk around before settling into the road going mood. Much like my own physical bits and pieces.

Mildred Hargis