tr7triumph.com

My driver seat (and no doubt the other one soon enough) needs a replacement rubber bottom diaphragm (XKC320) as of yesterday. Apparently that part was exhausted several years ago and there are none to be had. Parts folks are telling me the current substitute repair is a TR6 diaphragm which requires a complete rebuild in order to modify the frame.
Anyone here done this already?
How did it go?

Rimmer Brothers lists a "rubber strap kit" to replace the diaphragm; it requires drilling the seat frame, but it might be preferable to trying to fit a TR6 diaphragm. I have to do the seats in both my TR6 and my TR8 one of these days, so I'm interested in what other suggestions turn up.

Ken
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

I did my seats last year. I got 2 good used diaphrams from Rick @ S&S Preparations. Much better than all the "make do & mend" options.[:)]

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
[img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/175-1.jpg[/img][/img] [img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/pics005.jpg[/img][/img]

Hey Ken,
I've looked at the Rimmer site (that's where I got the XKC320 number for the original diaphragm). It looks like the strap kit is for the seat back - not the bottom. I see them listing the TR6 diaphragm for the bottom with a note that re-drilling the frame is required.

I did my seats last year with diaphragms from the Roadster Factory. They are about the same size, but slightly different in the way they attach to the frame. To fit properly, I had to drill new holes in the seat base frame, just large enough for the hooks to fit. It was easy and made a big difference in the way the seats feel.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

Do try to get a suitable diaphragm.

I fitted new diaphragms about 3 years ago. They were great, & the seats excellent. However they only lasted about 6 months, & split. [I have since realised I probably split them by kneeling on the seats to clean the windscreen]. [xx(]

I then took my seats to a top upholsterer & had them fully rebuilt, & recovered, when one frame broke. He did a beautiful job. Using a fabric webbing as the seat base, he gave me seats almost as comfortable as stock.

However even the best webbing stretches over time, & mine has. I now have a folded up blanket jammed under the drivers seat strategically, to aid the support. [^]

I was planning to get some new diaphragms to replace the webbing some time soon. Looks like I'll have to have a rethink, or buy a better blanket. [:D]

I think I got my diaphragms from VB in 2007(I'd have to go through my receipts to confirm). They were like originals, tough to put in. Had to have the wife hold the twine used to stretch while I hooked them up using locking pliers. Took all the strength we had. Were much firmer but you get used to them.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

One thing I have done quite a lot over the years, both to help stretched diaphrams but to give some protection from the seat in an accident was to fix a carpet tile (the old "Heuga"? pig hair ones, to the frame). These give quite a lot of support and make the seat feel less spongey than the standard set up.

One problem the TR7& 8 had was if the car was in a head on collision the occupants would dive through the bottom of the seat and sustain hip and leg injuries.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

<i>"fix a carpet tile"</i>

<i></i>How did you fit this? supercass

"Fix a carpet tile"

Cass - you could just unclip the diaphram from one side and push it in over the top, then reclip.
or
what I have done on a couple of seats I have completely rebuilt after welding up the normal cracked side rail is to glue & pop rivet the Tile to the front rail (sadly I have never taken any pictures). I have reinforced the fixing under the pop rivets.

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

I ordered one from the Roadster Factory that didn't fit so I sent it back. I got one from VB and it fit like the original.
Jim

Rimmer's picture shows a diaphragm, but if you click on it, it gives you the strap kit. If diaphragms are available at VB, that sounds like a better bet. I just hope the rubber is better than the typical steering rack and ball joint boots most suppliers have these days.

Ken
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

HI

There are those of the Jaguars, TR6 MG's are very similar - just ask the dimensions

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Seat-Diaphragm-Triumph-TR4-TR5-TR6-Vitesse-Herald-566592-612251-/190638628579?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c62f29ee3#ht_500wt_1413

TR4-5-6 Overall size; 37cm by 34cm.

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

I got an alternative from Robsport. Seems good.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC - out for the summer.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - In hibernation - Engine overhaul needed.

I had some good luck. After a semi-global search I found an intact used original one right in my town. I had to fabricate a couple of clips to replace broken ones (apparently those wear out also) but it went in easily (being "pre-stretched") and I can see over the steering wheel again. The weekend club tour was great.
Obviously though, it's as old as the one that failed and won't last forever. We're all going to have to deal with this repair sooner or later. Or again.