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clutch slave cylinder mount bolt info
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 04:28
by catmanboo
a mundane question: what's the length & thread pitch (SAE or metric?)of the clutch slave cylinder bolts? I need to restore threaded holes in bell housing; p.o. buggered them badly, not sure the ones I removed were correct. thanks-Jerry
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 07:52
by Neil_W
From spec sheet think it is metric 8 mm - length would I expect be the length of the securing flange of the slave cylinder + width of Gearbox flange minus a few mm's.
You can download a Works Manual from
www.triumph-cars.co.uk under section PDF's
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 08:00
by staningrimsby
Cheers for that Neil,
I found that a really interesting web site, even nabbed me a copy of the manuals as well [:)].
1980 2.0 16v DHC - Polly.
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 09:03
by Dave Dyer
Hi Jerry,
What I did was to drill and tap the holes 10mm and also drilled out the holes in the clutch slave cylinder to match.
I found the thread was too poor to retap the hole the original size.
And didn't want to take the chance of it failing miles away from home!
Cheers. Dave
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 09:36
by Beans
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Dyer</i>
... drill and tap the holes 10mm ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Better to use an M8 thread repair from the like of Helicoil or Recoil ...
<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 11:02
by Odd
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> it is metric 8 mm - length would I expect be the length of the securing flange of the slave cylinder
+ width of Gearbox flange minus a few mm's. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> OK, the securing flange of the slave cylinder I have in hand is 10mm thick.
Anyone have a clutch housing on the bench/shelf to take that measure from?
To this should be added:
the thickness of that sheet metal ("rear adaptor plate") fitted to the engine block and
the thickness of the washer(s) used.
Then you can decide on a suitable length screw for this application...
And as always I recommend stainless part threaded screws (with an aluminium based
antiseize paste) so you can easily take it apart twenty plus years from now... [:)]
<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 11:13
by john 215
Hi,
I always drill the blind hole deeper and tap the tread down as far as poss and longer bolts.
Cheers John
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1976 Speke FHC Beauty
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 11:33
by Dave Dyer
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>
Better to use an M8 thread repair from the like of Helicoil or Recoil ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Beans,
That would probably be a better option, I always thought it would have to be done at a machine shop, I didn't realise there was a DIY version. Might be worth looking out for a set.
Cheers, Dave
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 17:23
by catmanboo
many thanks, guys, especially Neil for spec sheet posting. as there shall be no more threaded bare aluminum holes anywhere on either the head or bell-housing, I want to get it right the first time. as is well known, threading anything into bare aluminum is a crap-shoot, eventually you'll have problems. found that out years ago on my old Harley shovelhead.there's now a threaded insert seized onto the front spark plug, & studs where bolts used to go! gonna drop the sub-frame today, blast & POR-15 it, & photo-document the engine bay prior to stripping it for repaint...Jerry
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 17:36
by DNK
Jerry, what part of US you in?
Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 20:46
by jclay (RIP 2018)
I keep telling you guy to buy two bolts about 1/2" longer to start the slave cylinder with, then remove one and replace it with the original, then do the other.
No more stripped out holes.
Does anyone listen?
Clay
[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]
Posted: 29 Jan 2012 22:40
by Beans
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>
... Does anyone listen? ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Nope, and don't read either [:p]
<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
Posted: 30 Jan 2012 01:48
by DNK
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>
[quote]<i>Originally posted by jclay</i>
... Does anyone listen? ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<font size="3">Nope, and don't read either</font id="size3"> [:p]
<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Rebel!
Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
Posted: 30 Jan 2012 15:12
by FI Spyder
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>
Does anyone listen?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I do but when I overhauled my slave cylinder I didn't have any problem putting it back on. When I do my clutch this winter I may and will be paying attention to it.
- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT
Posted: 31 Jan 2012 01:21
by silverseven
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>
...... when I overhauled my slave cylinder I didn't have any problem putting it back on.....
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
me neither .....and I had mine on and off again a couple of times!
Ron.