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good day all,

i have seen topics on the above, and understand that the original (12) fuse panel is crimped to the loom, i want to change to a blade type panel, but intend to use a second hand panel etc, has anyone used a second hand fuse panel from a salvage car, and with some dexterity is it possible to carry out without removing the dash?

cheers


Manny


Kawasaki ZX636R
Piaggio fly 125

[<font size="1">quote]<i>Originally posted by manny</i>

good day all,

i have seen topics on the above, and understand that the original (12) fuse panel is crimped to the loom, i want to change to a blade type panel, but intend to use a second hand panel etc, has anyone used a second hand fuse panel from a salvage car, and with some dexterity is it possible to carry out without removing the dash?

cheers</font id="size1">


I'm curious as to why you should want to do this.

The difficulty of obtaining the correct size glass fuses for one and two the blade type are probably easier to use and more reliable,we have been giving this some thought for a while now and have purchased a new blade fuse box from Wiring Products hopefully to fit it in the engine bay possibly to the bulkhead now that the battery is in the boot of the V8.
Cheers
Moe

I bought a few packs of fuses over 20 years ago.
And since I am a frugal Dutchy I never change a fuse unless it's blown [:D]
Till date only used two ...

So as they are still available online I wouldn't bother.
Unless you like the challenge of it of course [;)]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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owning a tr7 is a challenge....just wandered as you can also get reset fuses , similar to RCD that simply trip and can be reset...also as i have access to a few honda spares, including relay box, connectors etc

Kawasaki ZX636R
Piaggio fly 125

Hi Beans problem I had the last time I bought the fuses about 8 years ago now was the only ones I could get hold of were made in China and they were to long[:(] a right pain in a**e ha ha[8D]
I must admit since the problem of a dodgy fuse holder was sorted by bypassing the fuse board with an external fuse I have not changed a fuse since so maybe you are right.[}:)]
Cheers
Moe

I purchased a pack of glass fuses from this guy - fitted ok & plenty of spares now but never needed any since.

cheap if you know what I mean even to try.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-24-MIXED ... 2eaf78bc7d

That's a good price,
and 30 mm (1 5/32" or ~29.4mm to be exact) is the correct length
for our 1/4" diameter Lucas type fuse holders.

<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by manny</i>

good day all,

.......with some dexterity is it possible to carry out without removing the dash?
cheers
Manny
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

probably but it would be one of those fold down the hood, head in the footwell and legs in the air moments. IIRC undo a couple of screws and the fuse panel drops down a bit from behind the glovebox but I'm not entirely sure.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

hi all,

my other thought was to keep the original panel as is and create some solid cylindrical fuse bars to replace the glass ones, and then off this solder some blade fuse holders. Sophisticated pic attached, this would avoid any wires to be cut and easy to reinstate back to original.
[img]"C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\sangherar\My%20Documents\My%20Pictures\blade.bmp"[/img]

still 50/50 on whether to change original setup



Kawasaki ZX636R
Piaggio fly 125

No sense changing to a blade type if yours is working. Get extra fuse sizes from UK supplier that you might need. You should seldom need to replace a fuse unless you have a short. I have one cracked fuse holder but it still works. I got a used fuse panel for not much on a parts order from Robsport I believe it was (for when mine actually starts acting up). If you are removing a fuse to check or replace I would give it a dab of crazy glue at the glass/metal edge as they can come apart if really old. It's a lot of work to change a panel just because someday sometime in the future you might blow a fuse and you would like it to be easy to change a fuse or be able to go into any N/A auto supply store and pick one up. I have yet to blow a fuse in any of my cars even though in the Toyota the headlight bulb was arcing to the connector and was burning out the bulb every 6 months. Ended up getting a new connector from auto wreckers.

I wouldn't want to try replacing fuse panel without removing dash. If you do remove dash it gives you an excuse to clean/oil/tighten heater levers, check/clean/lube instrument cluster, check condition of all crimped wires/connections of wires along consul, solder crimped wires for more reliability, etc. etc. make a winter works project out of it.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

thanks all,

i think i will keep it as it is based on your comments, i was possibly overestimating the failure rate of the electrics to fuses, when it looks as if good grounding is priority..

Cheers

Manny

Kawasaki ZX636R
Piaggio fly 125

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by manny</i>

thanks all,

i think i will keep it as it is based on your comments, i was possibly overestimating the failure rate of the electrics to fuses, when it looks as if good grounding is priority.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There are about seven ground points on the newer cars (less on the older ones) but getting a good ground to complete the circuit is only part of the battle. The other is getting the electricity to the device. That means cleaning any connection the electricity takes on the way to the device (so you get 12V at the device). When a wire carrying the electricity to a device contacts a ground point (like when the insulation wears through so the wire contacts grounded metal) you get a path for the electricity with virtually no resistance so amperage increases and a fuse blows. If there is flexing of a wire it will eventually harden and break preventing the electricity reaching the device. While this can happen anywhere it is commonly at crimped connectors and soldering crimped connectors reinforces this area minimizing this possibility. Paying attention to where wires pass near sharp edges can lessen the possibility of insulation break down. The more diligent the attention to these areas the more the reliability of the car when you're a thousand + miles from home (not a possibility on Great Britain).[:p]

Here endeth the lesson.


- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT