Page 1 of 1

where can I find sound proofing floor material

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 04:58
by Imb4u
I took beans advice and have almost finished removing the sound proofing material from my TR7 convertible. Fired up my heat gun and worked away with a two inch metal scraper and all I have left is the drivers side and a bit of the center. It looks like I wont have alot of metal repair as the tub interior is excellent. Anyway I was wondering if anyone could recommend a supplier so that I might find this wonderful tar material to replace what I have just removed. Is there a kit package. I like to be proactive and have the material on hand for when it comes time to replace it. Also any idea what the joint seal material is and where it might be found.

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 06:15
by Beans
Have another browse through my weblog, somewhere at the end of 2009 (November and December).

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 10:26
by silverseven
You should be able to find the material posted in Beans pic at you local autoparts store (not so much Canadian Tire, but more the ones that supply the garages and collision centers [;)])
-here at my shop in Quebec we use Auto-parts Plus ......I think the are a national franchise, so there might be one near you out west, but with a slight name variation?


Worst case scenario , I'd even ask at a local bodyshop if they could order you some....I've done this before for my clients.

Ron.
Image ImageImage

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 12:37
by Vegas_M
Any of the "far east" oriented speed and accessory shops should have sound deadening mats. Comes in several makes and different size packages. Some need to be applied with heat to shape to and stick to the metal, others are more flexible with adhesive backing. Both work fine. The stuff I used had foil on one side.

The "joint material" is seam sealer and can be bought at Napa, CarQuest, body supply shops and online stores (e.g. Summit).

Have fun!

Martin

[url="https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BxOL0HRH5pDeNWRlOTVhZjgtMWE1Mi00ZWNiLWE3ZGYtOWNiODU1Y2JjOGQ0&hl=en_GB"]My TR7v8 Document Repository[/url]

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 14:53
by FI Spyder
I buy my seam sealer at local auto parts store (Duncan Auto). I'm sure Lordco sells it as well. If you join Old English Car Club (OECC) (Vancouver Chapter) you get up to 40% off at Lordco.

http://www.oecc.ca/vcb/

I belong to Central Island Chapter so get up to 40% off at Lordco and asked and got a cash account at Duncan Auto with up to 40% off. Depends on their mark up.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT
Image

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 15:36
by DNK
'Nother place,though more expensive than the net, is your local stereo store.
They usually carry it.
For small areas it works. I used them when I redid the area around the tank on my 6

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
Image

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 16:11
by Imb4u
Thanks all for the excellent direction on acquiring the sound material. I will start investigating the stores for the best price (money is dear)and get it into my for finish list/stock.
Thanks again
Now on to the metal work.

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 19:24
by jclay (RIP 2018)
[url="http://www.b-quiet.com/contactus.html"]Be Quite! (In Canada!)[/url]

Posted: 01 Dec 2011 23:37
by Bendder
I second Be Quiet! I have used some of their product in the past and it is very good and they have FAST! delivery and if you give them a call they are very helpful on the phone also.



Mark
1977 TR7 FHC
1978 TR7 FHC
1980 TR7 DHC
1980 Rover SD1 4.0L

Posted: 03 Dec 2011 08:21
by busheytrader
The classic Mini fraternity in the UK swear by "Silent Coat".

I think it originates your side of the pond.

Adam

Image Image

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

Posted: 03 Dec 2011 13:13
by zekow1
imb4u
This is what I did it cost me about 150
bought it at e-bay.

Image

Image

Rebuilding Engine
ImageImageImageImageImage

Posted: 03 Dec 2011 14:58
by FI Spyder
Soundproofing is usually quite heavy. Doesn't all that add a lot of weight? It is usually applied to flat panels (that vibrate hence transmit sound) and not to ridged surfaces that tend not to (and hence don't transmit sound). While full coverage will be more effective it's a case of diminishing returns where full coverage isn't that much different from flat panel coverage. Any sound engineers out there?



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT
Image