tr7triumph.com

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 01:07**

Hi Guys
I am seriouly thinking of taking the tank out before starting it after the engine rebuild.
The tank has been cleaned and there are three filters on the thing and I am worried the crap will still replicate and the rust will get throught and screw up the whole thing again.

sooooo I come to you.

What do you think?

should I get one of those aluminun tanks you buy by size for around 150-250 ??

Or take the original out and send it to get it refurbished and pay 450 plus transport etc.??
Or maybe one of you has a better idea???

Rebuilding Engine

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 01:34**

Didn't you get it done already by a marine outfit?

As for new although they are listed by several suppliers I don't think any are available. The FI tank is different than standard as it has two holes instead of one, one for sender unit and one for gas hose and gas recirculation. The carb tank has one hole with sender having the single gas hose out.

If you buy an generic aftermarket one you have to engineer mountings etc. etc. etc.

FI tanks are priceless. If you do send it out, how can you be sure it will last. Mine didn't and sealer started to flake off although I don't know how log ago it was done. Getting the flaking sealer out was an ordeal. I did mine with 4 part POR-15 kit for $150. The catch is the sealer has to be drained out or it won't cure. The twin holes are not in the low point so that becomes a problem. Fortunately when previously sealed they had welded in a bung at a low point (which is actually top corner when right side up). If you're going to get it sealed you would have to get a bung welded in a low spot as probably most sealers would have to be drained.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 02:13**

When I had a rusty tank, after cleaning a good in line filter kept the muck out of everything no problem.

I did one tank because it started leaking, rusted from the inside out.

When I added an upper cylinder lubricant to the fuel, it stopped the tank rusting, & the filter kept the engine clean. I'd probably still be running that tank, if I had been able to get it clean enough.

I couldn't, & it kept blocking up the filters too often to live with. I think the lubricant made those block up even quicker, so I did the tank.

I have cut up 3 tanks. It is only a 2.5 inch wide strip across the lower front, where water lies, that rusts. The rest of my tanks have still had a grey surface coating in good condition on them. It is not a big deal to cut that out, & weld in new metal.

Did the tank in my 7 about 10 years ago. Welded in the strip, then gave it the POR15 treatment, & it's been trouble free ever since.

Hasbeen

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 06:18**

Hi,

There is a gent over here making alluminium tanks to fit ours, both carb and F.I. Also have handy drain plug fitted so you drain the bl88dy water out every year [:(!]

http://andywiltshire.com/web%20site%20tank%20page.htm

Not cheap esp when you factor in postage across the muddy ditch but fit and forget [:D]

Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 07:31**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by john 215

... There is a gent over here making alluminium tanks ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
And they are very nicely made [8D]

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 16:22**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by john 215

There is a gent over here making alluminium tanks to fit ours, both carb and F.I. Also have handy drain plug fitted so you drain the bl88dy water out every year [:(!]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

They are very expensive especially if you add on shipping. Plus they don't appear to have the extra small fuel vent hose by inlet needed for those states/provinces that are required to meet emissions/air care. The hose goes to fuel separator then to the front of car to the charcoal canister completing the sealed system. UK/Europe have unsealed gas tank system for which these seem to be made for.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 16:24**

Zeke,

There's one on ebay right now. Worth checking out.

Jim

Posted: **17 Nov 2011 18:53**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder

... they don't appear to have the extra small fuel vent hose by inlet <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Refering to this one I presume?

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

Posted: **18 Nov 2011 16:41**

Yup, missed that.

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Posted: **19 Nov 2011 16:07**

Jim
Yes, idid clean it twice by a marine tank cleaning company.
i placed a transparent filter before the fuel pump and it is all fool of rust particles.
maybe with that filter and the one after the fuel pump it will take out all the impuraties ???

But I don't want to take a chance that there not and screw-up the injcetors and blow up the car.

Rebuilding Engine

Posted: **19 Nov 2011 17:13**

Yes it is rusting inside. First step is to clean out the varnish lining the tank from the gas that sat in there for extended periods. You may have presumably done this but I'd do it again just to be sure. The POR-15 has two quarts of soap done with hot water in two flushes. The Second is to get the rust out. In getting my failed sealer out I used POR-15 Stripper with roofing nails and this got all the rust out as well partly through the stripper and partly from the abrasion of the nails. (It took much rotating of the tank but I think with just rust to remove it would go much faster. The Third step is the POR-15 Metalready which converts any microscopic specks of rust still remaining and coating the surface with a zinc coating leaving a surface that the sealer can mechanically bond to. The fourth and final step is too put in the sealer about a two pint can of thick silver stuff that you swear could no way coat the tank. But it does, like magic. It must be drained as if any is left too thick it will not cure. That's why you need a drain bung welded in a low/high spot as the twin holes are not at low spots on the tank. Surprisingly most of the sealer drains out leaving a silver/grey metallic coating in the tank. It take about a week to cure before use (depending on ambient temp.

If you farm it out you don't know if their method includes all these steps or if they do three or two or one. Missing or combining steps will give you a sealed tank but how long will it last. If you farm it out you give up all quality control of the process.

If you do it yourself you do have to construct a rotisserie as there is much turning involved. I made mine out of two cheap engine stands which I had already (one for engine, one for transmission).

Here's a link to slideshow of pictures I took during process.

http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o131/Spit999/TR7/Sealing%20Gas%20Tank/?albumview=slideshow

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Posted: **20 Nov 2011 12:30**

I don't know if this conforms to the regulations across the pond but I've seen a few guys in the UK convert their cars / fuel tanks to fuel injection systems.

A standard tank is used (a new carb'd tank perhaps instead of repairing your rusty item) A std low pressure fuel pump takes the fuel to a swirl pot (location of your choice) and then the fuel from that is pumped to the injection system using a high pressure injection pump.

2 pumps, a bit more plumbing but you're able to use a readily available standard new tank.

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

Posted: **20 Nov 2011 13:52**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by busheytrader

I don't know if this conforms to the regulations across the pond but I've seen a few guys in the UK convert their cars / fuel tanks to fuel injection systems.

A standard tank is used (a new carb'd tank perhaps instead of repairing your rusty item) A std low pressure fuel pump takes the fuel to a swirl pot (location of your choice) and then the fuel from that is pumped to the injection system using a high pressure injection pump.

2 pumps, a bit more plumbing but you get to use a new tank.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That would work (if your tanks have the fuel vapour line by inlet) and the sealed gas cap is used the sealed system would remain intact. Do the aftermarket high pressure pumps need gas recirculation to cool them like the original Bosch pumps or has modern tech done away with that?

I thought someone had mentioned that the V8's had an internal FI pump that used the single hole tank. Is that right or was that another aftermarket solution?

- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

Posted: **20 Nov 2011 14:14**

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Do the aftermarket high pressure pumps need gas recirculation to cool them like the original Bosch pumps ... ? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yes.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I thought someone had mentioned that the V8's had an internal FI pump that used the single hole tank. Is that right ... ? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> No.

The carburettor equipped TR8 (and only that one model!) used an in-tank low pressure pump
fitted into the port side hole. The efi TR7 AND efi TR8 both used an in-line Bosch high pressure pump
fed from a trunk sitting in the port side hole. The return overflow fluid was also through this port side
opening. All of these two-hole versions had the level sender fitted into the starboard hole.

If you're interested in seeing the innards of an original efi TR8 tank I suggest you visit this URL:
http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/inside-an-fi-tank.html
There is a series of pictures I took when I cut one open. More will come when I go further into this project...

My two 1980 Wedges...

Posted: **20 Nov 2011 16:06**

That last picture of the non efi tank explains why a gallon of fuel won't register on the gauge. It's nowhere near the float.

That's one simple swirl pot in the efi tank.