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Ok just finished installing the 96amp Saturn alternator. Not as simple as the writeup makes it seem but I'll get to that. <b>I now have no spark!</b> Fuses ok. I replaced the main brown cable to the battery from the alt, and repaired a couple damaged wires but none of them have anything to do with spark (oil sensor, temp sensor, anti-run-on valve). I only spent a few minutes trying to figure it out so hopefully someone has a little insight that will point me in the right direction.

The original wires are supposed to be large brown, small brown, and small brown/yellow. The main brown cable was actually a black one with a 4" piece of brown soldered on the end then just taped into the loom.[V] Amazing that a new car could leave the factory that way but I guess that's how you get on the 50 worst cars list. The other 2 wires are a solid <i>yellow</i> one and a brown/yellow. I just assumed that the solid yellow was supposed to be the brown one. Even if these are wired wrong they don't have anything to do with engine spark, do they?

One question to anyone who has done this upgrade; the writeup clearly states to cut the black wire (i left it) but the schematic shows the outside wire cut (which in this case is brown). So which is it?


As far as not being as straightfoward as Greg Bober's writeup that comes down to the bracket (and the wire color issue). The backside needed to be cut so it wouldn't hit the alt. And the front needed to be ground down a bit so the alt fan wouldn't hit it.
Had to cut on the angled line..............Notched out for fan.


Craig '75 2.0 FHC

I would check the little white wires that go to the coil. The don't make a very good contact and just a little bump will dislodge them.

Clay

[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]

Ok, I found 1 wire that came off the coil and fell down and back towards transmission which is why I didn't notice this yesterday.
Still won't start. Sounds like it wants to though. I'm hoping its just because the battery is low or its flooded. Tried jumping it off truck and still no go. Hooked up to charger now, I'll try again tomorrow.
The carbs where running slightly rough last time I drove it so I hope there isn't something else going on.

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

Hope that truck was not 24Volt

Mariusl

Oh heavens no. It's really just a ford explorer but truck is easier.

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

mine dropped in with no real mods.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

The alternator I got was identical to the pics and had 8215 written on it. Maybe I have a 1 of a kind bracket. Not unlikely the way these things where built. If not I sure do now![:)]

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

I install a slightly shorter belt on my 7 when I made the conversion.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Ok got the car running. Just needed to charge the battery fully then no problem. But I'm guessing this isn't right..

Doesn't seem like the alternator is charging at all. Pretty sure all is hooked up correctly so I guess getting the alternator tested would be a good idea.

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

Hi Craig,

Dont look good if the engines running

Does your ignition light working [?]

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

No ignition light. What does that mean I should check?

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

I ignition light function does not always work with teh upgrade alternator, particularly if you used a short jumper wire from teh sensor terminal to the output lug of the alternator.

I would make sure that you did not mix up the locations of the two small wires that go into the plug.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma Ca

Hi,

Check the bulb, if it blows you wont get any charging on a standard set up, swap it with another bulb.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Seriously!? If that little bitty bulb blows the charging system doesn't work? Thats a pretty f'd up system. I'll check it tomorrow.

Ed, as far as knowing if the wires are hooked up right it's hard to tell. The orginal wires are supposed to be solid brown and brown/yellow, but they are solid yellow and brown yellow. I figured the brown/yellow was correct but who knows what they did in the Speke factory in 75? The wire coming from the output lug goes to that crappy little plastic block off the battery. Is this what you mean by "sensor terminal"? I replaced this entire wire.

Going to check that bulb first then switch the wires if that doesnt work.

Thanks for the input and keep it coming!

Craig '75 2.0 FHC

The wire that is connected to the ignition light should carry 0 Volts when the ignition switch is off, and 12 volts when it is on. The other wire connected to the alternator is the exciter, and usually carries 12 Volts all the time (ignition on or off). If these wires are crossed, the alternator will not start charging and the light will not work.

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