tr7triumph.com

I've got the parts and plan on replacing the little rubber bumpers that keep the door handles from sinking in. I've also got the shop manual so I guess i'm set for instructions. It looks a little complicated but I'm up for the task. Are there any tips, tricks, or warnings about this?

Thanks

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://web.me.com/rg_spb/TR7_Spider/Home.html

If you purchased the ones on ebay or Robsport they need to be trimmed to fit. Stock ones are much smaller. You can access the bumper pedestal and replace by just having someone hold the handle in the open position as opposed to dis-assembly of the door handle.

Really? That would be much easier. Maybe I should try to weasel one of the existing ones out and compare the two. Thanks, I'm glad I asked!

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://web.me.com/rg_spb/TR7_Spider/Home.html

Wedge Parts is the local seller for those. i think he has them made.

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

I bought some "off the rack" rubber bumpers from Napa Auto Parts that work fine. I did all three cars a couple of years ago for about $1 each.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

I've already got the ones from EBay/Robsport so I'll have to compare them and cut accordingly. I've got no idea what the original one look like.

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://web.me.com/rg_spb/TR7_Spider/Home.html

The original ones were a small rubber ball on the end of a tail with a bulge near the root. It feeds into a small hole under the door handle. The bulge squeezes through the hole to hold it in place.

The ones that I bought generally are used on things like glove compartment doors. The tail was not a tight fit in the existing holes but they have never fallen out. They held the handles a bit proud at first but after a few days they compressed down to near level. Certainly much better looking than the doors with no bumpers.

Edward Hamer
Petalaum CA

Here is an page I found talking about using nylon screws rather than the rubber bumpers. Also, if you are removing the handle, you can extend the clamp plate that holds it against the door.

http://billstr8.shutterfly.com/techtips2

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Hi Darrel,

A little of topic, but great personal site [8D]


Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john 215</i>

Hi Darrel,

A little of topic, but great personal site [8D]


Cheers John

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi John,

It isn't my site, I just thought the information and pictures might help the discussion. Sorry if it distracted from it.

-Darrell


Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

One door down, one to go! I found it too difficult to get the little bumper in with the handle on the car so I decided to take the handle out. Once I got the handle out and apart it was easy to get the new piece in, just took a little slobber and pulled that sucker through from the back. Getting that handle assembly back in was a pain though. I'm wondering if maybe it's better/easier to disconnect all the linkages and take just the handle out and not the door latch parts?

I also took advantage of this time to put in some new window guide felt pieces. This too turned out to be a bigger pain than I thought. I had to unscrew the window guide to get the window out of the way so that I could have access to the entire window channel. Now it's a little stiffer getting the window up. I greased the tracks and was just wondering if there's another part that needs to be greased too?

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://web.me.com/rg_spb/TR7_Spider/Home.html

The key to easy sliding windows is two fold. First is there should not be too much slop front to rear as that will allow the window to cock with resulting binding. Secondly is in and out. The front track should match the line of the front (or vise versa), matching the curve of the glass. It's trial and error with no way of knowing if it's one or the other that's causing the binding. It's a matter of fiddling with it until you get something acceptable that you can wind the window up and down with the crank. The tracks where just friction fit but I glued them in with contact cement as the rear ones you invariably find sitting in the bottom of the door.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rgsSpider</i>

... I'm wondering if maybe it's better/easier to disconnect all the linkages and take just the handle out and not the door latch parts? ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That indeed is [;)]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Door number two went much better! I was able to just pop the handle assembly out far enough to get the handle off and get the rubber bumper replaced. Same with the rubber window channel, was just able to wiggle the window out of the way and get access to both channels. Also got some new LEDs put in the gauge cluster, WOW, I can drive at night now! Turns out that two of the existing bulbs (larger ones) were out anyway. A successful days work. Thanks everyone for your help! I updated my blog if you want to see my handiwork!

Randy

1980 TR7 <font color="red">Spider!</font id="red">
http://web.me.com/rg_spb/TR7_Spider/Home.html

Until I read this thread, I never knew that there were little bumpers under the handle but still didn't like how they recessed a bit from the sheet metal. Rather than do it the correct way, I took some flat dense foam gasket material (about 3/16" thick), cut out two small pieces (about the size of an aspirin), and RTV'd them on top of the flattened bumpers on my car. I was done in about 10 minutes and so far (all of 3 hours) the handles lay flat, inline with the door sheet metal, and look better.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)