Anonymous

Gearbox Type-Nr.

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
Post Reply
frankman
Swagester
Posts: 561
Joined: 11 Jun 2005 20:16
Location: Switzerland
Contact:
Contact frankman

Gearbox Type-Nr.

Postby frankman » 25 Sep 2011 11:15

Dear Friends Tr7 It seems somewhat difficult to figure out what type of gear I have with me and my colleague, it is a mystery ...

Image

Can anyone (mildred is the professional) saying what Eratzteile respectively. Repair kit is needed? There are for example Three different input Driveshafts? Thanks for your tips...

Image

Hello from Switzerland

Frank
Top
john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:
Contact john 215

Postby john 215 » 25 Sep 2011 11:25

Hi Frank,

Looks like a recon box to me appears to have been overstamped-

These are the gearbox numbers i have -

G16A SD1 2000 (Could be 4 speed)

G17A SD1 2300/2600 5 speed

G19A SD1 3500 SE/VP 5 speed

G22A SD1 3500 Police spec 5 speed

G23A SD1 2600 Police spec 5 speed

G26A SD1 2400 Diesel 5 speed

G27A SD1 2000 Later model 5 speed

G28A SD1 Vitesse 5 speed

G30A Sherpa Range

Cheers John

ImageImageImage Image
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!
Top
Beans
TRemendous
Posts: 7795
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 19:29
Location: Netherlands
Contact:
Contact Beans

Postby Beans » 25 Sep 2011 11:35

The upper one is clear isn't it, whatever you choose [:p]
As the TR8 box should have a prefix of either 15A or 051N I'd put my money on a (factory) rebuilt Rover or Land/Range Rover box for the lower ‘box.

As you might have noticed I am in the process of rebuilding a gearbox at the moment.
My advice, dismantle it, measure bearings and order them direct from your local bearing supplier.
Unless there are very clear signs of wear, synchro rings should normally be good enough to re-use.
If you need new gears or shafts it is more cost effective to buy a rebuilt ‘box.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
Top
frankman
Swagester
Posts: 561
Joined: 11 Jun 2005 20:16
Location: Switzerland
Contact:
Contact frankman

Postby frankman » 28 Sep 2011 11:16

Hi, thanks for the reply will look with my colleagues .. Beans Yes .. because everything )Part( is right, respectively. wrong with my gearbox ---

an input shaft can not be built in version B .. D Version A ? vv
I thought maybe there are features to distinguish the transmission if the number is missing .. But a revised version is certainly an option (the reinforced gearbox)....



Hello from Switzerland

Frank
Top
Odd
TRiffic
Posts: 1969
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 08:49
Location: Sweden
Contact:
Contact Odd

Postby Odd » 28 Sep 2011 14:27

Get a brand new R380 instead - the CHF is strong enough for it...
Top
frankman
Swagester
Posts: 561
Joined: 11 Jun 2005 20:16
Location: Switzerland
Contact:
Contact frankman

Postby frankman » 28 Sep 2011 15:03

He Odd .. but you have to have the money no matter what currency [:D]


The R380 can be used with almost no conversion .. Main shaft gear and the same and the position of the shift lever?

You are from Sweden - cool -- what's about Saab [:(]

Hello from Switzerland

Frank
Top
Beans
TRemendous
Posts: 7795
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 19:29
Location: Netherlands
Contact:
Contact Beans

Postby Beans » 28 Sep 2011 18:53

Standard (early) 5 speed gearbox should be more than strong enough for any two litre slant for be it an 8 valve or a Sprint.

Actually the 'box behind my Sprint engine is one of the earlier ones.
Rebuilt it myself some 8 years ago. Still going strong despite a fair amount of abuse [:D]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
Top
Jolyon39
Wedgista
Posts: 1028
Joined: 30 Jul 2004 01:54
Location: New Zealand
Contact:
Contact Jolyon39

Postby Jolyon39 » 28 Sep 2011 19:01

I had the same problem identifying a gearbox with no stamping. (mine was so early that it did not even have the raised casting on the side)

The early boxes had the stamped serial number underneath. It was on the edge or lip that meets the bell housing, there is a flat area there.

Do you need a photo? Use a wire brush to really clean that area and it will show up. It is on the bottom, not the sides or top.



Jolyon


Image
Top
Beans
TRemendous
Posts: 7795
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 19:29
Location: Netherlands
Contact:
Contact Beans

Postby Beans » 28 Sep 2011 19:06

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jolyon39</i>

... The early boxes had the stamped serial number underneath ...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Which makes sense with British Leyland [:D]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>
Top
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 349 guests