tr7triumph.com

Brakes on car go to the floor, then after pumping them, they get stiff, does anyone know what this is

Could be a few issues.
Bleed them first

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Probably air in rear brake lines.

Clay

[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by caveman7216</i>

Brakes on car go to the floor, then after pumping them, they get stiff, does anyone know what this is
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">brake still have problem after bleeding,now brake light is on. just replaced master clyinder, and plastic pressure switch.

Did you bench bleed the master.
Do these have a PWDA as in the 6?

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

To bleed the system you must first remove the plastic switch.

A worn out balance valve can make it impossible to bleed the rear brakes. Rimmers sells new one for about £40. I have replaced all valves in my three cars.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

I've asked this before - and not had an answer, but does the car really NEED the horrible 'balance valve' ?? My Mini had much better braking after I threw it's balance valve over the hedge......

id="quote">brake still have problem after bleeding,now brake light is on. just replaced master clyinder, and plastic pressure switch.
[/quote]

When you say 'brake light is on' do you mean the warning light or the rear barke lights? When bleeding the brakes the brake failure warning light 'switch' in the bottom of the master cylinder should be removed.
If it is the rear brakelights, I have had these stay on permanently before after changing the M/C. It was the the bracket holding the brakelight switch above the pedal which can get bent replaceing the master cylinder.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

Here's a question.
Richard good is selling a dual master cy. kits for the TR6. Suppose to be not that heavier on the peddle and quicker action of the brakes.
Now the 6 can't be much different than the Wedge.
What do you think about getting rid of the booster on these?
http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=35

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Maybe legal in America - but would definitely be illegal over here.
I wouldn't tamper with the brake master - I'd see to it that it was fully functional as design intended
before anything else. 30+ years is a lot...

<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

I've asked this before - and not had an answer, but does the car really NEED the horrible 'balance valve' ?? My Mini had much better braking after I threw it's balance valve over the hedge......
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The proportioning valve diverts brake pressure away from the rear to stop them locking up - the harder you jam on your brakes the more the pressure balance goes to the front. All good with standard brakes but if you upgrade your front brakes then you don't need the valve because the front wheels will probably lock up before the rears anyway.



The map: http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548