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Hi All
Fuel gauge is only going to between quarter and half full
Is it possible i have connections wrong?
If anyone has a photo of which wire goes to which terminal this would be a great help, also any other suggestions before i go the new sender route.
My low fuel light is not working either

Thanks

Tony

If it`s registering something I would think the connections are ok. Like you I guess, the only thing I can think of is a dodgy sender.

Edit - Or possibly gauge?


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

I replaced the sender and it still didn't register full. Replace the gauge and it was perfect.

When you replace both at the same time, replace the gauge first then you can tweak the lever arm and stop on the sender to get it right before you install it.

Clay

[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]

It costs nothing to check the connections from sender to gauge for dirty or corroded joints before buying a new sender unit. These looms are at least 30 years old after all.....

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

It costs nothing to check the connections from sender to gauge for dirty or corroded joints before buying a new sender unit. These looms are at least 30 years old after all.....
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I second that. Gauge needle position depends on resistance in circuit which is also dependent on good (clean) connections. At the very least both parts of each connection should be cleaned with contact cleaner with a brush etc. and put a little dielectric grease on them so they aren't as likely to recorrode down the line. None of these connections are sealed like on a modern car. Then there is the problem of the crimped connections that fail to maintain a good grip on wires and wires can break leaving one strand if any making the connection. Soldering connections helps this. Removing these possibilities cost next to nothing and should be done as a matter of course before buying sender or gauge. While it may not solve your problem it will make your car more reliable down the road, especially if you systematically do this through out the electrical system as time permits.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Thanks very much for replies.
Would still like to know which colour goes to which terminal on sender.

Tony

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by The Old One</i>

... Would still like to know which colour goes to which terminal on sender ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hope this is clear enough, non FI tank ...



On the left in the picture green/orange, on the right green/black.

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1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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Thanks Beans
Exactly what i wanted.

Tony