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Hi all,

Here's an easy one for you experienced folks...

I'm trying to bleed the rear brakes on my '76. There's only 1 bleeding nipple on the rear and that's on the driver's side. Does this system run the fluid through the passenger side, then the driver's side? If I successfully get a solid stream of fluid (no air bubbles at all) from the driver's side, does that mean the passenger side is properly bled too?
That's for answering this silly question but I'm used to every wheel having it's own brake bleeding nipple.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

Yep, you have it right. Puzzled me for a while as well.

Some have added a "T" fitting close to the center of the car and cut into the main line that goes from the master cylinder to the rear and set it up like the conventional system we are a custom to.

Ken


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

Get a Speed Bleeder http://www.speedbleeder.com/



or Russell Brand (Edelbrock) Speed Bleeder # 639560 (should fit?)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/639560/10002/-1



to help you with your bleeding. Remember to apply the pressure slowly when bleeding the rear brakes as you can form ultra fine air bubbles in the fluid as you bleed the rears. It usually takes bleeding again in a few days to remove all the bubbles in the rear system

Clay

[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]

Napa has them too.
Though, I'm thinking of trying to pressure bleed them in the future.
Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

I use a one way valve for $5 I picked up at Princess Auto. Works great although I like to do old school crack open bleed valve for last bit of bubble with pressure on the pedal.





TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Like jclay, I have found it takes a second, or even a third bleeding, with 20/30 miles in between bleedings to get our brakes up fully hard.

Hasbeen

Thanks for the replies. I was using a Mighty Vac to bleed them and have had much success in the past using it (plus I don't need an assistant to help)but I wasn't sure it would be able to pull the fluid through the passenger side, then over to the driver's side.
This time, I made an adapter for the homemade pressure bleeding set-up I have and it worked very well. I did get a LOT less fluid out than I had anticipated, but there are no more visible bubbles.
Another bleeding after some road tests is good advice and I will take it.
Thanks again!


Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

In one of my severe old moments, I drove my car about 30 miles at highway speeds with the hand brake one. One drum got so hot that the wheel seized to it.

Needless to say, it boiled the brake fluid. I thought I had also fried the master cylinder as well as the brakes eventually went to the floor. After rebuilding the rear brakes as the friction material just flaked off the shoes, and bleeding the system many times, I now have great brakes.

Clay

[url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/Technical"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://public.me.com/jclaythompson"]My Public Folder[/url], [url="http://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Welcome.html"]My TR8 Site[/url]