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Changing wheel stud PCD

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Craig C
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Changing wheel stud PCD

Postby Craig C » 18 Mar 2011 01:46

Hello all, I’ve been giving thought to how to fit a set of wheels (Rota RB-Rs, 17x9 -13p offset front, 17x9.5 -19p offset rear) which are only available in 4x114.3 pcd (they were produced as a group buy for the HybridZ boys) to my Tr7V8. I know flares will be required.

The obvious way is via a set of adaptors (AdaptitUSA can do them for US$45 each), but this will, at the least, add another inch to the offset. Not to mention I’m pretty sure this is illegal in Australia. So, the thinking cap has been on, and I’d like to throw my ideas into the ring for constructive discussion.

First thought for the front:

Drill the existing hub for the 4 x 114.3 PCD. My thoughts are that there is not enough “meatâ€￾ that far out on the hub due to the bevel edge of the hub. I know someone on this list did this for a Mustang four stud PCD, but my investigations suggest this is 4 x 108, significantly narrower. Could machine the hubs narrower and weld on a non-bevelled outer ring but this is now getting bigger than Ben Hur…

Second thought:

Get a pair of alloy hubs made with no bevel and the new PCD. The issue with this is cost. Unless someone knows someone with the hub already as a CAD file ready for CNCing I can see this being extremely expensive. Even with a file already in existence I think it will still be pricey.

Third thought:

Buy a pair of SD1 hubs and modify the SD1 struts sitting in my garage to fit a Tr7, then change PCD on SD1 hubs. Problem with this is that the SD1 hubs are 5 stud so trying to fit the four studs around the five brake disc studs won’t work? Don’t have the brake disc pcd to confirm, but eyeballing the photo on the Rimmers site suggests it can’t be done.

First thought for the rear:

Drill the brake drum for the new pcd in between the existing studs. New studs are then fitted only through the drum face, not the axle flange. The wheels have gaps between bolt holes so the nuts which would have to go on the existing studs would not foul. The issue here is that of the thickness of the drum face and whether it is thick enough to take the load. This method is used on unbraked trailers but I believe the face is pretty thick for those models. I guess theoretically it wouldn’t need to be thicker than the axle flange, would it? How thick is that?

Second thought:

Have the axle flange and drum face drilled for the new PCD. The issue here is the outside diameter of the flange and whether there is enough meat to take the PCD out to 114.3mm from 95.25mm. And whether the wider PCD means the studs will foul the internal bits within the drum as they spin.

Comments, or anyone with a simple solution I haven’t thought of?

Craig
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 18 Mar 2011 07:06

Canley Classics make a sweet alloy front hub that the can supply as a blank so you can customise the PCD. They are for Spitfires. GT6s etc so I'm sure they are no use for our cars but the point is, they are only £79 & they are aluminium so maybe getting hubs made won't be that expensive.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xh ... roduct.xsl

You don't want to be taking risks when it comes to keeping your wheels attached to the car so it's worth spending a bit of money on.

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Postby Marko » 19 Mar 2011 12:14

Take off your front hubs and rear halfshafts, weld in the existing holes, get a machine shop to drill out a new bolt pattern.

Simple as that

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Postby john 215 » 19 Mar 2011 14:24

Hi,

I think Marko has the best plan but failing that how about these-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wheel-Hub-Adapter ... 256118b6b7

Cheers John

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Postby Craig C » 20 Mar 2011 02:09

Thanks for the input;

John, I am not averse to a pair of alloy hubs (I recently purchased a pair for my Spitfire) if anyone one can point to a reasonably priced source. I believe from a discussion on the Club Triumph site a little while ago (Beans was a contributer) that Jigsaw Racing had an alloy hub (expensive acording to the discussion) but from the photo it appeared to be a straight copy with the bevel, and nothing is now on their web site at all.

Marko, I agree that drilling the hub for the new PCD would be easiest; my point was with a 114.3mm PCD the stud would be well into the bevel and the strength of the hub at that point was my question. If anyone has done it with a "large" PCD and not had their wheel head off into the scrub I would like to hear (I have actually seen a wheel overtake its "host vehicle" on the highway. Once seen never forgotten).

Peter, I haven't fitted the alloy hubs to my spit yet so I could try one on a spare tr7 suspension leg I have and see if there is any possibility of modification of a "blank".

Craig
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Postby slider » 20 Mar 2011 08:01

there is a place in sheffield that make addapters for MG tf(which happen to be the same stud pattern) to put later stud pcd 4 or 5 stud.I think they are a MG specialist, hope this is a help.

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Postby FI Spyder » 20 Mar 2011 15:57

I know there are companies that drill their blank alloys with what ever PCD you want but you would be limited to their styles.

Here's a quick example, do a Google search.

http://www.tttoolsltd.co.uk/services/blank-alloy-wheels-custom-drilled-any-pcd



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Postby Craig C » 20 Mar 2011 23:14

This photo may indicate why I am enamoured of this wheel for a wide arch Tr7:

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Postby Marko » 21 Mar 2011 00:00

you could build up material on the bevel with welding too.

what's the exact tire dimension that will be run on the car?

The hubs are much stronger than required , and the wheel bolts just hold the wheel on the central hole ring on the hub.

Wheels come of when they are not torqued properly..., threads lubed and torqued propery.

give me some time , i can run couple simulations what will exactly happen to the stock hub if you drill the other PCD , to see if there is "enough meat" on them.

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Postby Craig C » 21 Mar 2011 04:31

Thanks Marko, I am planning on running a 245/40/17 on the front (9" wide -13mm offset) and a 255/45/17 on the rear (9.5"wide -19mm offset). I like a little stagger...

Of course, the easyist solution would be for four others to want these wheels and we can then get the factory to change the PCD...but I asked that question a while ago and got zero takers[:(]

Craig

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Postby Beans » 21 Mar 2011 17:24

Lovely looking wheels,
but in my opinion 17 inch is way over the top for a TR7.

Ride and comfort will suffer badly,
but he who wants to be beautiful must suffer [:p]

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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Mar 2011 18:46

My thoughts as well. With those low profile, high pressure tires Fred Flintstone would have a softer ride.[:)]


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Postby Marko » 21 Mar 2011 20:10

they look similar to minilites.

Rota's are good , light and cheap wheels.

15" Torque model is on my mind for my 7.

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Postby Craig C » 22 Mar 2011 02:18

Come on guys, my daily driver is a Holden Sportwagon with 245/45/18s as standard. Bone-shaking? I think not...

Yes, they are minilite style wheel which is why I think they are very apt for a wide arch Tr7/8. A modern interpretation of the "works" wide wheel rally cars.

Below are a couple of 240Z's with the same wheels. A similar vintage car to the Tr7 that originally was shod in 13's and I think it looks fantastic in the 17's.

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Postby ColoradoTR8 » 23 Mar 2011 21:45

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Craig C</i>

Below are a couple of 240Z's with the same wheels. A similar vintage car to the Tr7 that originally was shod in 13's and I think it looks fantastic in the 17's.

Craig
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My '73 240Z had 15's from the factory. Did they come with 13's down under?

<b><i>Shawn</i></b>

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