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steering an brakes

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rocky_679
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steering an brakes

Postby rocky_679 » 08 Mar 2011 10:44

ive fitted the anti dive kit to the 7 now i find i have tight spots on the steering but b4 i fitted the kit i fitted a recon rack from rimmers an new track rod ends just wondered if by fitting the anti dive kit do i need to alter the steering in any way[?]allso ive had new pads n shoes fitted to the car replaces the rear brake lines an hose got all the air out of the system yet theyre still travelling to much to the floor via foot pedal also the handbrake doesnt seem to be holding very well any ideas[:(]

stephen j dark

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Mar 2011 15:52

The part about the emergency brake. All pivot points should be clear of old crud/rust and fresh grease applied. This would be handbrake pivot, compensator pivot and all levers and sliding parts in brake drum. Warning: only brake grease should be used in brake drum and very thin coats at that. Use sparingly. Brake cable should be in good shape (not frayed internally or gummed up with road detritus. The rubber cover at cable/hand brake lever should be in good shape (and in place) to protect crap from entering cable sheath and rusting brake lever from underneath. This will make sure all force applied to hand brake is transmitted to brake shoes. That being said/done some force is needed to activate it just as some force is needed to steer the TR7 in parking lots. The above was done to my car when preparing it for out of country car safety check before being accepted for driving in Canada. It will hold the car on my steep driveway while I position ramps in front of tires to drive it up on.

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TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Mar 2011 16:12

Re: Brake travel. Did you also replace the front brake lines? Old lines may expand I think. Did you overhaul the master cylinder. Because lines where original I replaced them as a matter of course and overhauled the master cylinder, calipers, new rear cylinders (I could have overhauled them it turned out). Pads and shoes where like new so it had those replaced shortly before it went into it's 7 years of storage. I later replaced the new rubber lines with braided but there wasn't much difference that I could tell between new rubber and new braided but the braided will stand up better with time passing. The master cylinder while it worked well had the pressure differential piston frozen which I freed up. It's only a couple of a few bucks for the kit (I used TRW brand) but it gives you a chance to see the condition of cylinder (no rough spots/voids/corrosion) in the piston travel part. I don't recall there being any adjustment for cylinder to vacuum assist (unlike my Integra). If the air is out you should have a pretty solid feel to the brake pedal and I can lock all four wheels in a panic stop (did that three times). The pedal travel is normal (relative to my other cars). If yours is long I wonder if you have standard booster or an upgraded one that might have a longer travel.

When I work on a system (brakes or what ever) for the first time when I don't know the service history of the car I do a complete overhaul front to back not assuming something is OK as that assumption might not only lead you down the garden path but take you somewhere you don't want to go.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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rocky_679
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Posts: 253
Joined: 21 Aug 2007 17:29
Location: United Kingdom
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Postby rocky_679 » 10 Mar 2011 12:49

thats the steering sorted when i fitted a new steering rack i didnt think i had to adjust it to the car but all sorted now works nice with the new bearings i fitted to the suspension legs [:D] allso fitted uprated springs an gas inserts just gota do the rear now an sort the breaks out the shes all good to go

stephen j dark

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